More info on Aartun and Gravdal deaths: Alpinist Newswire

Here is another link for a brief article about the death of Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, this time from Alpinist Newswire:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12w/newswire-aartun-gravdal-die


Though it's been a day since I heard about this tragedy, it's still shocking to me each time I read about it.  Just last week I was reading about Aartun climbing a new route in Patagonia.  Amazing how things can change so quickly.

Great morning turns bad. . .

Just got back from climbing Willard Waterfall with Phil and my father-in-law.  It was my father-in-law's first time ice climbing and he did very well.  The waterfall has melted out quite a bit over the last couple weeks and there are now some small sections of mixed climbing to make things slightly more interesting.  The temps were pretty warm which made for plastic ice and warm bodies.  Quite an enjoyable morning, until. . .


When I got home, I ate some breakfast and got on the computer to read some of the climbing blogs I frequent.  I first went to Cold Thistle (www.coldthistle.blogspot.com), one of my favorite blogs.  I read the title of the post: "Bjorn-Eivind Artun and Stein-Evar Gravdal RIP," and my heart sunk.  I have often read about these two climbers and some of the incredible routes they have done.  They truly were some of the greatest alpine and ice climbers of our day.  I pray for the friends and family of these two climbers that they may feel comfort during this difficult time.  They will be missed.


For more information about these two climbers and the routes they have climbed, Dane at Cold Thistle has posted some good links.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/02/bjrn-eivind-artun-and-stein-ivar.html

Also, a cool, short video and pictures of these two climbers in Norway climbing some massive ice routes:

http://ut.no/artikkel/1.7477846


It is sometimes difficult to accept the fact that mountain sports, especially at such a high level of ability and commitment as these climbers,  are dangerous.  Each time one heads into the mountains, that person willfully increases the risk to themselves.  I have heard many stories recently of skiers and climbers killed in avalanches, falls off of ice, etc.  Even a good friend of mine just got back after a somewhat close call on the Grand Teton.  It is sobering.  And when others ask me why I or anybody else would be crazy enough to ice climb or backcountry ski, sometimes I struggle to find an adequate answer.


But the fact is, many of the very richest and most rewarding experiences I have ever had have been in the mountains.  Life, to me, wouldn't be worth living without experiencing moments like that every now and then.  So I am grateful to people like Bjorn-Eivind and Stein-Evar (and many others) who have lived their lives in a way that has inspired me to seek out such rewarding experiences for myself.  It is unfortunate that their lives have ended, but I am convinced they have even greater experiences awaiting them.

Metamucil Therapy

Without going into too much detail about my own digestive system, I want to share something that makes my multi-day outdoor outings much more enjoyable.  One of the many great outdoor innovations (debatable) of our time is the freeze-dried, just-add-boiling water backpacking food.  It is light, easy to prepare, pretty tasty, etc.  But like most food you find today, one thing freeze-dried food lacks is fiber.  Most people get the majority of their fiber from vegetables and some fresh fruits.  In the mountains, however, it is difficult to take fresh fruits and vegetables.  Vegetables generally don't have enough calories to be worth their weight and bulk to carry.  Fruits are usually heavy and sometimes hard to keep from spoiling or getting smashed.  Combine this with the fact that many foods that are great for the mountains, especially during winter (proteins and fats, like cheese, meats, etc), often have the opposite effect of the fruits and veggies, and you have a recipe for, at the least, discomfort, and at the most, digestive disaster (which isn't pretty on multiple levels).

Last year, while camping at Ingraham Flats on Mt. Rainier, our group was sharing a camping area with a guided group of about 15 people.  Of course, while camping on a glacier, there aren't too many places (one, to be exact) to go to do your business.  That one place is right out in front of everybody.  So, when you walk over to, well, you know, you simply inform everybody that you're dropping your pants and everybody else turns around (hopefully).  I don't know about you, but I enjoy my privacy while #2ing.  So, I hope, when I get over to take care of business, it goes quick and clean and nobody sees anything.  Well, imagine (figure of speech, probably not worth really imagining) you just hiked up to Ingraham Flats (or 14 camp, or any other glacier with other people), you have to go to the bathroom, you've eaten a lot of cheese and other calorie-rich, fiber-poor foods, you haven't been able to eat many fruits or vegetables, and there are people around.  In your head you're praying that the whole process takes less than 30 seconds, but you know that's not likely.  Bad situation.  You'd probably almost rather hike back down to Camp Muir to use the solar toilets.

Ok, so when you're in the mountains and not on a glacier and it's time to find some privacy, maybe it's not as big of a deal to keep it under 30 seconds, or a minute.  It is, however, much more enjoyable when the process is clean and comfortable.  It makes hiking more comfortable, cleaning up leftover bathroom supplies easier, etc.  A nice, comfortable two-zy can be quite an enjoyable process, especially if the view is good.  It's a nice change from staring at the wall of a bathroom.

A poo with a view, Avalanche Canyon, Tetons

Digestive health is simply a small detail that nobody talks about that can make a trip more or much less enjoyable.

In order to minimize my bad outdoor bathroom experiences and take full advantage of potential good experiences (i.e. good views), I do what I call, "Metamucil Therapy."  The idea is simple.  About a week before the trip, start taking metamucil.  Don't go overboard, but be consistent.  Make sure your digestive system is working well.  Then, when you get into the mountains, keep taking it.  You may need to up the dosage a little to get the same desired effect as you did at home with a healthier diet.  Metamucil is not like most other laxatives on the market.  It doesn't cause diarrhea (at least it shouldn't).  It's bulk-forming and softening.  That's why I use it instead of other fiber supplements while in the mountains.  And it tastes better than a lot of other fiber options, in my opinion.

It's a good idea to try it out before your trip.  It may take some time for your body to get used to it and there's a small chance that it just won't work well for you.  But if it does work, what a great outdoor skill to improve.  I use this system on pretty much every trip I go on that is over more than about 2 days.  It has allowed for consistent sub-30 second bm's, which is key when other people are around and there's no escape to seclusion.   

David Lama on the first free ascent of Compressor Route on Cerro Torre

An interesting interview with David Lama after his successful free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre:
http://rockandice.com/news/1793-tnb-lama-disagrees-with-ct-bolt-chopping

Also, the story of this climb from Lama's own website:

http://www.david-lama.com/en/news.html?no_cache=1&tx_lamanews_pi2%5Bnewsuid%5D=268&tx_lamanews_pi1%5Bnewsuid%5D=268&tx_lamanews_pi1%5Bnewspage%5D=0

Lama has received a lot of flack from the climbing community over the last few years, but you have to admit, he is an incredibly talented climber.

NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant

I was finally able to get back on ice again after almost a month.  Unfortunately, extremely busy schedules mean that 3am departures for ice cragging sessions before work and school are one of the only ways for me to get out. 

Phil on Malan's waterfall at 4am; Ogden, Utah

The climbing was great, though I fell asleep in classes and struggled to stay awake at work. When I was packing my gear, I noticed that I have many different jackets for many different uses.  Some are waterproof hardshells, some softshells, some primaloft, some down, and some fleece; each has its specialty, and each one I take for different climbs.  Pants are a different story for me.  Though I have 3 different models of softshell pants, I really only use one; the NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant.  I use these for winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice and rock climbing, etc.  They are the best softshell pants I have found.

NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant

I’m picky about pants.  There are certain features on pants that I feel are key for climbing and other winter activities in the mountains.  There is a certain fit that I look for in a climbing pant, and I won't use the pant for climbing if it doesn't have that fit.  First of all, grommets. Grommets at the hem of the pants can turn a pant into a gaiter, allowing for better breathability around the leg, a lighter and more comfortable fit, and it looks better in pictures J.  Also, heat from your boots will move out the top of the boot and up the leg, helping to keep the pants dry and your legs warm.  Gaiter often trap this heat exchange around the lower leg and mostly build up sweat, the opposite of what you want to happen.  I love gear that can pull double duty and allow me to lighten my pack.  Anyway, grommets=gaiters.  Some pant companies sew nylon loops at the hem of their pants instead of grommets.  This works too.  It’s not as easy to secure and probably not as durable, but it works.  I have had pants, however, that I have put grommets in, but the pant wasn’t long enough or stretchy enough, and the pant impeded movement.  I couldn’t high-step in them.  I only use those pants now for skiing because I never worry about having a gaiter while skiing.  Another thing I am picky about is having a good fit in the waist.  If a pant is too big in the waist, it will either fall down or come out from under a belt and look/feel horrible, especially under a hipbelt.  Most pant companies will either fit me in the waist and be too short in the leg, or fit me in the leg and be to baggy in the waist (though my waist is getting bigger, now that I’m married L).  The only pants I have found to fit well are the arcteryx gamma lt in a medium long and the NWAlpine Fast/Light Pant.  The gamma lt in med long is about the equivalent of  a 32 waist and 34 length.  But the gamma lt’s don’t have grommets.  Therefore, my pick for the best softshell pant:  The NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant.

NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant

These Pants are perfect, almost.  I decided to try out the NWA Fast and Light pant because they are designed specifically for alpine rock and ice climbing.  To be honest, the feature that convinced me to try them is the grommets around the cuffs of the pants.  I went through a stage where I put grommets in all of my winter pants (with some successes and a few big failures).  Now I prefer to buy pants that already have them.  I also like the pocket and waist design on the pants.  First of all, there is only one pocket on the pants; on the right thigh.  This is just low enough that it is not covered by a harness and just high enough that you don’t feel it on your knee.  It is also big enough to securely carry most topo maps, a few snacks, etc.  No other pockets mean they are great for climbing, but not real great for around town.  That’s what levis are for anyway.

Single thigh pocket with items for scale

The softshell material is very stretchy, so even though they are a bit short on me in the leg, they don’t restrict movement while climbing, even with the pants tied down to my boot as a gaiter.

.                          

 I got these pants in a large for extra length but was afraid they would be too big in the waist.  They have sewn in stretch panels on the waist, however, which pulls in the extra fabric nicely.  The waist really does fit perfectly, with a belt.  This is the only pant that fit this well in the waist with a variety of layering options (the pant alone, one baselayer, and even two baselayers underneath). 

Fast/Light Waist with stretch panels

note: these pants are a low-rise fit

 My arcteryx gamma lt pants fit very well in the waist too, but do not grow to accommodate a lot of extra layers underneath like the NWA pants.

The material is also fairly water resistant, though the gamma lt’s do have a better DWR.  These pants dry quite quickly, though, which helps if they wet out.  I have used these pants now for about 8 months and the DWR has pretty well worn off.  While ice climbing in December in fairly wet conditions, the pants wetted out after about 10 minutes on a drippy waterfall.  But, they were dry again in about 10 or 15 minutes of hiking after I got off the climb.  I’m sure if I re-treat them with a DWR, they would be almost as good as new.

Fast/Light fabric wet out after 10 mins, but dried again in with about 15 mins of hiking.

The DWR was great for about the first 6 months of use.

I have only two complaints about these pants, but one of them is really my fault.  First of all, they have a double layer of fabric on the instep for protection against crampons.  That is nice, but I put a crampon point through one of the layers and had to patch it.  I would prefer that they put a more abrasion resistant layer of material at the instep.  But, if you just don’t stick your crampon through the instep, you won’t have any problems.  Don’t know if it’s so much a design flaw as user error.  I do like gear though that is designed for my own stupidity.

Repaired instep

  My Gamma lt pants don’t have instep protection either, but their fabric has a little more stretch and a tighter weave, I think.  When I caught the instep of the gamma lt pants with the same crampons, nothing happened.  No tear.  No mark.  Nothing.

The other complaint is that, though they put grommets in the hem, which is a big thing for me, the fabric around the hem is quite stretchy.  They even put in an extra stretchy section in the hem.  If you’re post-holing in snow for a while, snow will work its way up through the stretchy hem, even when it’s tied to your boots gaiter-style.  I would prefer that they sew in a no-stretch material around the hem so that I can get a really tight seal around my boot and no snow will get in if post-holing for hours.

Stretchy hem (bad design, imo) with grommets (good design)

Even with these complaints, these are still my go-to pant for every winter trip.  I would probably choose my gamma lt pants if they had grommets, but they don’t, so the NWA Fast and Light pant gets my choice.  They retail for about $110, an absolute steal, especially compared to many of the other softshell pants on the market (usually between $150 and $300).  The Gamma lt pants retail for $170.  The Gamma Lt pant is my choice for the best all-seasons softshell pant.  They are cool during the summer, plenty water-resistant for winter, and very comfortable.  They just need grommets.

Check out the NWAlpine Fast and Light Pant here: http://nwalpine.com/fastlight-pant
Make sure to check out the other cool offering from NWAlpine too!
Check out the Arcteryx Gamma LT Pant here: http://arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Pants-Shorts/Gamma-LT-Pant#

Cerro Torre Controversy

A worthwhile essay by Colin Haley about the Compressor Route bolt cutting controversy.  Even if you don't agree with what he says, he says it quite well and gives a great argument.  Well worth your time to read it.

Colin Haley's Essay concerning Cerro Torre and Compressor Route bolt cutting

Winter Layering Part 1

I got home the other night from climbing, changed my clothes, and climbed into bed.  My wife rolled over and said, "You're not going to shower?  Gross!"  I told her that I didn't sweat the whole time I was climbing and I'd showered before I left, so I didn't stink.  She rolled over, smelled me, and agreed I didn't stink and said I could stay.  She then said, "How do you go climbing for four hours and not sweat?"

The key is proper layering

The fact is, the last few times I've been snowshoeing or climbing I haven't sweat (except a little under a pack).  I have sweat a ton less this winter compared to other winters but I've also been getting out a lot more often.  I have found that you have to feel just slightly cool so that you don't sweat.  If you're moving, chances are you will feel good.  If you stop, you may get a little chilled.  That's the ideal.  Before you get cold, throw on a warmer layer over the rest of your clothes.  This is the action suit/belay jacket idea.

A couple good link for more on winter layering:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/09/winter-layers.html

http://willgadd.com/?p=568

Last year I thought I had finally found the perfect winter clothing system.  For the upper layer, it consisted of the Arcteryx Rho LTW as a baselayer, the NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody, the Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody, the Arcteryx Alpha LT Jacket (I have the SV but if I had to do it again, I'd get the LT), and finally the Rab Neutrino Endurance down jacket.  Actually, my ideal would have consisted of the Arcteryx Dually Belay jacket, if it wasn't so dad blame expensive. 

NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody

Climbing Ogden Via Ferrata in Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody

 Anyway, I felt like this combination of jackets would take me anywhere I would ever want to go (at least in the lower 48 and probably even Canada and AK).  I wouldn't always take every layer with me on a winter outing, but mostly.  For the bottom layer, my ideal system would be the Arcteryx Rho LTW pant, the Arcteryx Gamma LT pant, and the Arcteryx Kappa pant.  The Rho baselayer is plenty of insulation on the bottom layer for hiking and climbing in all but the very coldest situations (0 degrees or colder while hiking uphill or climbing strenuous rock/ice).  For standing around in cold temps (below 20 degrees), I prefer happy pants (insulated pants that make the cold weather climbing experience much more enjoyable).  Almost every company make them, but the best ones have full side zips.  The best I've found are the Arcteryx Kappa Pants (though quite pricy), but the Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pants are quite good as well.  Rab has an updated offering (Photon Pant) that looks pretty nice and I'm excited to try out. 

Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant

Arcteryx Kappa AR Pant

 My wife, Kelsey, has a pair of First Ascent Igniter pant which she loves and, I must say, they fit her very well.  I originally ordered them for her because I found them online for a good price and I wanted her to enjoy winter backpacking with me a little more.  When they got here I was impressed with the quality of the manufacturing.  The only compaint I have about the pants is that the side zips don't go all the way to the waist.  The men's version don't either.  They are perfect for her because she doesn't do very much climbing with crampons.  I, on the other hand, would pretty much only use them on climbing trips with crampons.  Without full zips, it is impossible to get these pants on and off without ripping them into pieces without taking your crampons off first.  This is, at the very least, a hassle, and at the very most, dangerous, depending on the terrain you are on when you put them on.  Anyway, for climbing applications, get happy pants with full side zips.

So, my layering generally goes something like this:
If the weather is 25 degrees and not snowing:
 and I'm hiking uphill, I wear a long sleeve baselayer (Arc Rho Ltw) and softshell pants. 
If I'm climbing, I throw on a weather/wind resistant hard- or softshell to keep dripping waterfalls at bay.  I really like the Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody or I use the Arcteryx Alpha SV Jacket. 
If I'm resting I throw on the Atom Lt Hoody.  I may layer the NWAlpine black spider light hoody under the atom is I think I'll be sitting around for a while.
If it's snowing, I throw a hardshell over all the layer (with all vents open if hiking)
If the weather is 15 degrees or colder and not snowing:
and I'm hiking uphill--Baselayer, NWA hoody (if not windy) or Arc Acto Hoody (if windy)
If I'm climbing--Baselayer, NWA Hoody, and Arc Acto Hoody or Hardshell (Arc Alpha) OR baselayer and Atom Lt Hoody.  The Atom as a climbing layer is one of my favorite options.

Climbing in Atom Lt Hoody, Middle Teton, October 2010

never overheated, never got too cold

If I'm resting--Rab Neutrino or baselayer, NWA Hoody, Atom Lt Hoody, and hardshell.
If it's 15 degrees or colder and snowing:
and I'm hiking uphill--baselayer, light softshell (Arc Acto) or NWA Hoody (not water resistant, but if it's that cold you shouldn't get wet in it, unless you're really working up some steam).
If resting and snowing--same as if not snowing.  At 15 degrees or colder, there is no need for waterproof.  Even water-resistant is usually unnecessary.  The snow simply won't melt, unless you sit or kneel in it.

I pretty much take the same jackets on almost every trip now.  If the weather is going to be above 15 degrees but below freezing and I'll be moving most of the time, I take a baselayer, the Acto, and the Atom Lt Hoody.  I wear the Atom to climb in if it's near 15, the Acto to climb in if it's closer to 25 or 30, or all three if I'm belaying.
If the weather is below 15 degrees, I take a baselayer, the NWA black spider light hoody, the Acto, and the Rab Neutrino.  I only wear the Neutrino for belaying/sitting around, but I'm always warm. 


Anyway, that is, in a nutshell, how I usually layer during the winter.

What works for me may not work for others at the same temperature.  It varies based on many factors.  Body fat percentage, diet, fitness level, hydration level, etc.  The key is to understand the principles--hike slightly cool, action suit/belay layers, etc., and adjust them according you one's own personal physiology.

Some thoughts on particular pieces of gear that I have really been impressed with (or not) will be on Winter Layering Part 2

Getting Out, Winter Layering intro.

A couple nights ago my friend Phil and I decided that a drytooling session was in order.  After a month (December) of great ice climbing in Ogden, UT, the weather turned a bit fickle and drytooling has become the best option.  A few days after Christmas, the weather went from nighttime lows in the teens and low 20s to lows in the mid 30s and highs near 50 degrees.  This continued for about a week and then got cold again.  After four days of cold weather, Phil and I headed up to Malan's Waterfall.  The skies were covered with clouds that morning and the temperatures hovered around 30 degrees F.  The ice definitely looked thinner than a couple weeks previous, but we both agreed it looked thick enough to safely climb.  While I was leading the lower pitch (the only pitch that was in), a refrigerator sized chunk of ice fell off one of the upper pitches and hit the top of the first pitch, about 50 feet left of where I was climbing.  It shattered  and sent shards (baseball-size shards) of ice at Phil and me.  Once at the top of the route, I quickly belayed Phil up to me and we rapped off the route and called it a day.

First Pitch of Malan's Waterfall (WI4+ according to Mountainproject, 140ft)

I haven't been ice climbing since that day.  Don't get me wrong, I wasn't scared off.  I can't wait to get back on the ice!  However, school has since started back up, Phil is back to work full-time (which means we will start our 3am assaults again soon), and the weather has been too warm!  In order to try to stay in shape, I have been snowshoeing (still not enough snow for good backcountry skiing), doing pull-ups on hangboards and ice tools, doing push-ups and crunches, and running. 

Nearing the top of Ben Lomond with Kelsey

On our way back from Lewis Peak

The primary focus of this winter has been about perfecting our systems--not only our technical systems (building anchors, transitions between pitches, etc), but also our physical bodies (though perfecting is far from what is happening to my body) and our clothing and gear systems.  Perfecting one's system is critical for moving fast, light, and safe in the mountains.  In the past, I have been held back from moving fast for these three reasons (one or the other, not usually all three reasons at the same time).  We have a relatively big objective in mind this winter, and having our systems dialed could be the difference between success and failure.
The next few posts will focus on my clothing system and some other good options.

Arc'teryx Atom lt Hoody Review

The Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody

I just wanted to share a few thoughts about what has become one of my very favorite pieces of kit.  I have owned this jacket now for almost 2 1/2 years.  My initial thoughts on it when I first put it on were that the fit was perfect, the cuffs were the best I've ever seen for this type of jacket, and the price was very competitive with many of the other synthetic offerings from Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear, etc.  A few days later I was using it as a belay jacket while sport climbing in Ogden, Utah (it was October), then a week or so later I used it as my active climbing layer while climbing the NW Ice Couloir on the Middle Teton.  The next week I was using it as a more formal jacket while going to eat at a nice restaurant.  This jacket has been one of the most versatile jackets I have ever owned.

NW Couloir, Middle Teton, WY

It was about 25 degrees Fahernheit while on the Middle Teton.  The wind was blowing about 35 mph from the lower saddle until we got into the couloir and then it died down to about 15 mph.  Normally these temperatures would have been a little too warm to be climbing hard in this jacket, but the wind, combined with the underarm stretch panels, made climbing in this jacket quite comfortable.  It was just the right amount of insulation to not overheat while climbing, and to not freeze at the belays (though we simul-climbed the majority of the route).

Two years later and I am still smitten with this jacket.  My wife was too and often stole it from me, until she got one of her own for christmas.  I have taken this jacket on every climbing and backpacking trip since I got it until just a few weeks ago when my wife and I climbed the Pfeifferhorn above Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT.  I have grown quite attached to this jacket and I have to admit I was a bit sad leaving it behind.  In place of the atom I took the Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody and a Rab Neutrino down jacket.  I figured the Rab would be a little nicer around camp (lows were in the single digits) and the Acto was new and I was anxious to try it out.  I must admit I was very pleased with the Acto.  Stay tuned for a full review.  I need to get more climbing and hiking in it under my belt.

My wife and I on the Pfeifferhorn, UT.  I am wearing the Acto MX Hoody and she is in her Atom LT Hoody.

Back to the Atom.  A few reasons why I love this jacket.  First of all, the fit is incredible.  I am 6'2", 185 lbs., and have a short torso (18" torso length).  I bought it in a medium.  The sleeves are the perfect length, the hood fits nicely over my head without a helmet and very well over a helmet, and the hem drops down to about mid butt in back and a couple inches below the belt in front.  The DWR was intially very good, though it has now worn off.  It still repels snow, and it repelled light rain well for about the first year.  With the hood over a climbing helmet, the hood pulls the front of the jacket up to my nose.  This is perfect for me in cold, blowing weather, and I can easily unzip the jacket six inches to breathe easier or to dump heat.

A few of the features on this jacket include two fleece-backed handwarmer pockets and an internal zip pocket, 60g of coreloft insulation (very similar to primaloft, from what I can tell), powerstretch hardfleece underarm panels, the best cuffs on the market, and a hem drawcord.

About Coreloft:  I was told by an arcteryx rep that coreloft is very similar to primaloft, except the fibers are slightly bigger in diameter.  This allows Arcteryx to use a looser weave in their nylon without coreloft fibers pulling through the shell fabric.  This increases the breathability of the shell.  I would have thought that a looser weave would decrease the durability of the fabric, but in the two years I have been climbing in the jacket, I can't find a single snag or sign of wear.  My wife, on the other hand, has had her jacket for about a month and just found a small snag.  She was using an ice axe for the first time a couple weeks ago, so that may have been the culprit.

There is only one way in which Arcteryx could improve this jacket, in my opinion.  And actually, I don't really think it would be an improvement in most cases.  Anyway, a drawcord on the hood would allow one to cinch the hood down a little tighter around the head for windy conditions.  With a helmet on, the hood is perfect.  Without a helmet, the hood can let a bit of cold air in around the head and can even blow off the head.  A drawcord on the hood would fix this, but I'm still not convinced it's worth the extra weight.  On very cold and windy days, the powerstretch panels can get a little drafty.  In this case a light wind jacket over the top is an easy solution.  The benefit of the added breathability far outweighs this bad side effect. 

To see this jacket in action as well as the fit and features, here's a good, short video from ogdenoutdooradventure.com:

http://ogdenoutdooradventure.com/2011/12/08/gear30-arcteryx-atom-lt-hoody-review/

Also, a couple good reviews from a very knowledgable Dane at Cold Thistle can be found at this link:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html

and

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-sweater.html

I'm convinced that this jacket will continue to be a favorite for years to come.

-Greg, Gear:30