I just want to give a big thanks to the Dorais Bros' for their slideshow last week. They did a great job. We really appreciate them coming out and sharing their experience, pictures, and enthusiasm with the Ogden community.
We'd also like to thank Outdoor Research for their support. They have been an awesome partners to work with and donated some great swag for the event.
If you haven't seen their blogs yet, you're missing out. There are very few blogs that I've found that keep me as excited and motivated to get into the mountains as their blogs do.
Here are the links again:
http://jasondorais.blogspot.com
http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/
Friday, May 17, 2013
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Dorais Brothers' Slideshow - Tuesday, May 7 at 7pm
GEAR:30 and Outdoor Research are proud to present The Dorais Brothers' Slideshow, "Mountain Endurance: Red-lining in the Wasatch."
GEAR:30 came up with the title and flyer. The humble guys that the Dorais Bros are, they thought the flyer sounded a bit exaggerated. For those of us that follow their blogs, we understand that it's accurate.
Anyway, come join us!
GEAR:30 came up with the title and flyer. The humble guys that the Dorais Bros are, they thought the flyer sounded a bit exaggerated. For those of us that follow their blogs, we understand that it's accurate.
Anyway, come join us!
Here's a link to their blogs:
My Thoughts on this year's Piolets d'Or 2013 Winners
This might be old news. . . it's an old post too that I just didn't get around to finishing and publishing.
Participation trophies were handed out at this year's Piolets d'Or, thereby making the award, well, much less valuable.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13s/newswire-piolets-d-or-2013?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+alpinist%2FEFcn+%28Alpinist+Newswires%29
Now, I have been a fan of the Piolets d'Or award for years. I felt like it was a good way to recognize people who have accomplished incredible things in the mountains. It has encouraged climbers to push their own limits and the limits of the sport. It has encouraged climbers to expand their vision of what is possible. It has now become a participation trophy.
I'm sure my opinion means little to most people, especially to those that are involved in choosing the Piolet d'Or winners, but that's the nice thing about blogs; if you don't want to hear it, don't read it.
In the article on Alpinist, it is stated that the Piolet d'Or has adopted a non-competitive, "everybody wins" approach to climbing, discouraging competition in the sport. Marko Prezelj chose not to accept his Piolet d'Or a few years ago because he said something about not liking the rivalry that develops between climbing teams because they are all vying for the coveted award. He said that it encourages drama and winners and losers are judged.
Well, I think it's great that Prezelj has his opinion and that he acted upon his convictions, but I strongly disagree.
If people feel like they've lost because somebody else won, that's a personal pride issue, not an award issue. If somebody feels like an award is causing an unhealthy rivalry among climbing teams, that's a personal problem. It's not the award causing those feelings, that is the climber's pride and ego getting in the way. Pride says, "if you succeed, then I am a failure." I have never once felt that way while climbing with others or hearing about others' successes in the mountains.
One of the greatest things about the climbing community that I belong to (and I thought it was this way everywhere) is that everybody wants everybody to succeed. We all celebrate each others' successes. There's never the feeling of failure when somebody else succeeds.
There is also competition among our community. Recently we had a bouldering competition as part of the Ogden Climbing Festival. Though each climber was hoping to win, all of the climbers were cheering each other on, wanting each other to climb their best.
Having an award like the Piolet d'Or is not about pointing out those that don't win; it's about celebrating those that have succeeded in pushing the sport the most. There's no shame in climbing an incredible route, being nominated for a Piolet d'Or, and then not winning the ultimate prize.
But, when you start handing awards out to everybody, it devalues the award. Even if everybody is worthy of winning the award, the award is not worth as much to the sport or those that are in the running. The "everybody wins"/participation trophy approach is the quickest way to make the award irrelevant and encourage mediocrity or at least stop encouraging excellence.
Reward the excellence of the best climbs by nominating them for the Piolet d'Or, but then recognize the very best of these top climbs with the actual award. It encourages future climbers to push their personal limits and the limits of the sport.
I hope that the participation trophy approach is a one-time thing and doesn't become the standard. If so, I imagine somebody else with some other award will eventually step up to recognize the best climb, it will become the most sought after award, and people will start to forget about the Piolet d'Or.
Participation trophies were handed out at this year's Piolets d'Or, thereby making the award, well, much less valuable.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13s/newswire-piolets-d-or-2013?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+alpinist%2FEFcn+%28Alpinist+Newswires%29
Now, I have been a fan of the Piolets d'Or award for years. I felt like it was a good way to recognize people who have accomplished incredible things in the mountains. It has encouraged climbers to push their own limits and the limits of the sport. It has encouraged climbers to expand their vision of what is possible. It has now become a participation trophy.
I'm sure my opinion means little to most people, especially to those that are involved in choosing the Piolet d'Or winners, but that's the nice thing about blogs; if you don't want to hear it, don't read it.
In the article on Alpinist, it is stated that the Piolet d'Or has adopted a non-competitive, "everybody wins" approach to climbing, discouraging competition in the sport. Marko Prezelj chose not to accept his Piolet d'Or a few years ago because he said something about not liking the rivalry that develops between climbing teams because they are all vying for the coveted award. He said that it encourages drama and winners and losers are judged.
Well, I think it's great that Prezelj has his opinion and that he acted upon his convictions, but I strongly disagree.
If people feel like they've lost because somebody else won, that's a personal pride issue, not an award issue. If somebody feels like an award is causing an unhealthy rivalry among climbing teams, that's a personal problem. It's not the award causing those feelings, that is the climber's pride and ego getting in the way. Pride says, "if you succeed, then I am a failure." I have never once felt that way while climbing with others or hearing about others' successes in the mountains.
One of the greatest things about the climbing community that I belong to (and I thought it was this way everywhere) is that everybody wants everybody to succeed. We all celebrate each others' successes. There's never the feeling of failure when somebody else succeeds.
There is also competition among our community. Recently we had a bouldering competition as part of the Ogden Climbing Festival. Though each climber was hoping to win, all of the climbers were cheering each other on, wanting each other to climb their best.
Having an award like the Piolet d'Or is not about pointing out those that don't win; it's about celebrating those that have succeeded in pushing the sport the most. There's no shame in climbing an incredible route, being nominated for a Piolet d'Or, and then not winning the ultimate prize.
But, when you start handing awards out to everybody, it devalues the award. Even if everybody is worthy of winning the award, the award is not worth as much to the sport or those that are in the running. The "everybody wins"/participation trophy approach is the quickest way to make the award irrelevant and encourage mediocrity or at least stop encouraging excellence.
Reward the excellence of the best climbs by nominating them for the Piolet d'Or, but then recognize the very best of these top climbs with the actual award. It encourages future climbers to push their personal limits and the limits of the sport.
I hope that the participation trophy approach is a one-time thing and doesn't become the standard. If so, I imagine somebody else with some other award will eventually step up to recognize the best climb, it will become the most sought after award, and people will start to forget about the Piolet d'Or.
Friday, March 22, 2013
GEAR:30 Winter Clearance Sale
So, GEAR:30 is clearing out all winter product, including skis, ski boots, bindings, splitboards, backcountry accessories, clothing, etc. It is all (excluding ice climbing gear) 40-60% off. Ice climbing gear is 20% off.
Ski and Splitboard Hardgoods are 60% off, which includes products from Dynafit, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Brooks Range, Fritschi, Arbor Snowboards, Jones Snowboards, and many others.
Winter Clothing from Outdoor Research, La Sportiva, Marmot, Brooks Range, Rab, Icebreaker, and many others is on sale, 40-60% off.
Winter climbing and skiing packs from Black Diamond, Osprey, and Hyperlite Mountain Gear are 60% off.
Ice climbing gear is also on sale. Ice tools, Axes, Crampons, Screws, etc. from Petzl, Grivel, Cassin, and CAMP are 20% off.
We still have decent stock left, but it's going fast.
If you're close to Ogden, come by and take advantage of the sale.
Our address is 1931 Washington Blvd, Ogden, Utah 84401.
If you don't live in the Ogden area but would like to take advantage of the sale, you can give us a call at 801-732-5870.
We'd be glad to help you shop over the phone. We can take payment over the phone, but we do charge shipping.
GEAR:30 has many of the industry's top brands at prices that can't be beat.
Ski and Splitboard Hardgoods are 60% off, which includes products from Dynafit, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Brooks Range, Fritschi, Arbor Snowboards, Jones Snowboards, and many others.
Winter Clothing from Outdoor Research, La Sportiva, Marmot, Brooks Range, Rab, Icebreaker, and many others is on sale, 40-60% off.
Winter climbing and skiing packs from Black Diamond, Osprey, and Hyperlite Mountain Gear are 60% off.
Ice climbing gear is also on sale. Ice tools, Axes, Crampons, Screws, etc. from Petzl, Grivel, Cassin, and CAMP are 20% off.
We still have decent stock left, but it's going fast.
If you're close to Ogden, come by and take advantage of the sale.
Our address is 1931 Washington Blvd, Ogden, Utah 84401.
If you don't live in the Ogden area but would like to take advantage of the sale, you can give us a call at 801-732-5870.
We'd be glad to help you shop over the phone. We can take payment over the phone, but we do charge shipping.
GEAR:30 has many of the industry's top brands at prices that can't be beat.
Monday, March 4, 2013
Metamucil Therapy
This is a re-post from February 9, 2012. I had forgotten about it until I ran into somebody that had read the blog and mentioned he enjoyed this article, and that he had tried it out with some success. I posted it back when about seven people (all of which are family members) read my blog. I am up to about 12 people now, so for the five that haven't read this article, here you go. Maybe it can enhance your future outdoor experiences.
Metamucil Therapy
Without going into too much detail about my own digestive system, I want to share something that makes my multi-day outdoor outings much more enjoyable. One of the many great outdoor innovations (debatable) of our time is the freeze-dried, just-add-boiling water backpacking food. It is light, easy to prepare, pretty tasty, etc. But like most food you find today, one thing freeze-dried food lacks is fiber. Most people get the majority of their fiber from vegetables and some fresh fruits. In the mountains, however, it is difficult to take fresh fruits and vegetables. Vegetables generally don't have enough calories to be worth their weight and bulk to carry. Fruits are usually heavy and sometimes hard to keep from spoiling or getting smashed. Combine this with the fact that many foods that are great for the mountains, especially during winter (proteins and fats, like cheese, meats, etc), often have the opposite effect of the fruits and veggies, and you have a recipe for, at the least, discomfort, and at the most, digestive disaster (which isn't pretty on multiple levels).
Last year, while camping at Ingraham Flats on Mt. Rainier, our group was sharing a camping area with a guided group of about 15 people. Of course, while camping on a glacier, there aren't too many places (one, to be exact) to go to do your business. That one place is right out in front of everybody. So, when you walk over to, well, you know, you simply inform everybody that you're dropping your pants and everybody else turns around (hopefully). I don't know about you, but I enjoy my privacy while #2ing. So, I hope, when I get over to take care of business, it goes quick and clean and nobody sees anything. Well, imagine (figure of speech, probably not worth really imagining) you just hiked up to Ingraham Flats (or 14 camp, or any other glacier with other people), you have to go to the bathroom, you've eaten a lot of cheese and other calorie-rich, fiber-poor foods, you haven't been able to eat many fruits or vegetables, and there are people around. In your head you're praying that the whole process takes less than 30 seconds, but you know that's not likely. Bad situation. You'd probably almost rather hike back down to Camp Muir to use the solar toilets.
Ok, so when you're in the mountains and not on a glacier and it's time to find some privacy, maybe it's not as big of a deal to keep it under 30 seconds, or a minute. It is, however, much more enjoyable when the process is clean and comfortable. It makes hiking more comfortable, cleaning up leftover bathroom supplies easier, etc. A nice, comfortable two-zy can be quite an enjoyable process, especially if the view is good. It's a nice change from staring at the wall of a bathroom.
A poo with a view, Avalanche Canyon, Tetons
Digestive health is simply a small detail that nobody talks about that can make a trip more or much less enjoyable.
In order to minimize my bad outdoor bathroom experiences and take full advantage of potential good experiences (i.e. good views), I do what I call, "Metamucil Therapy." The idea is simple. About a week before the trip, start taking metamucil. Don't go overboard, but be consistent. Make sure your digestive system is working well. Then, when you get into the mountains, keep taking it. You may need to up the dosage a little to get the same desired effect as you did at home with a healthier diet. Metamucil is not like most other laxatives on the market. It doesn't cause diarrhea (at least it shouldn't). It's bulk-forming and softening. That's why I use it instead of other fiber supplements while in the mountains. And it tastes better than a lot of other fiber options, in my opinion.
It's a good idea to try it out before your trip. It may take some time for your body to get used to it and there's a small chance that it just won't work well for you. But if it does work, what a great outdoor skill to improve. I use this system on pretty much every trip I go on that is over more than about 2 days. It has allowed for consistent sub-30 second bm's, which is key when other people are around and there's no escape to seclusion.
Saturday, March 2, 2013
My Most Recent and Most Exciting Adventure
I got a phone call from my wife yesterday as she was driving back from Salt Lake City, letting me know she was having contractions and was headed to the hospital. Three hours later, we had a new baby boy!
I don't care what other people say or think - fatherhood and children are 1 million times better than any mountain adventure I've ever had, and this is only day 1.
Lincoln Mac Reynolds is his name, we think. He was 6lb 10oz, 19.5 inches long. Born at 36 weeks.
Here are a few pictures:
I don't care what other people say or think - fatherhood and children are 1 million times better than any mountain adventure I've ever had, and this is only day 1.
Lincoln Mac Reynolds is his name, we think. He was 6lb 10oz, 19.5 inches long. Born at 36 weeks.
Here are a few pictures:
Proud New Papa
Happy New Mama.
Healthy New Baby
Everybody racing to be the first on Facebook with the announcement (this was not staged until I was about to take a picture and then the last person but up their phone).
Lincoln Mac Reynolds. He was breech and had to be delivered C-Section. His head was a little flat on one side because my wife's uterus is shaped a little funny and his head was stuck in one position for a few months. His head is bouncing back nicely, though.
Friday, March 1, 2013
Stairway To Heaven, Provo Canyon
My friend Phil and I made plans about 6 months ago to head to the Tetons in early February to give the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand a go. We had been told that climbing the Black Ice Couloir during the winter is the closest thing to climbing the Japanese Couloir on Denali as you can get in the states. Both are at about the same elevation, both have about the same technical grade, and both have to deal with similar temperatures. Because the Cassin Ridge is on my "to do before I die" list, we thought it would be worth checking out.
As early February arrived, my wife (who is pregnant) started having consistent contractions. She got a checkup and the doctor told us the baby could come at any time, even though it was still a couple months early. I didn't feel comfortable taking off on a climbing trip and risking missing the birth of my first child, and not being around to help my wife during her time of need. Phil understood and we canceled the trip.
After about a week of no action on the baby front, my wife started encouraging me to go to the Tetons and get this climb done (probably so she didn't have to hear my talk about it anymore, and because she is very supportive of my good habits). Without too much effort, I was convinced and we started making plans to go again. A busy week of work postponed it a week, but we were ready to go.
Another appointment with the doctor a couple days before we were to leave confirmed that taking off at this point was too risky. My wife was partially dilated and mostly effaced, and the baby was a week away of being full-term. I called Phil up to apologize again. He understood and we made plans for a climb closer to home (since we both already had work off).
With that wordy introduction, here are some pictures and explanations of our climb of Stairway to Heaven in Provo Canyon:
As early February arrived, my wife (who is pregnant) started having consistent contractions. She got a checkup and the doctor told us the baby could come at any time, even though it was still a couple months early. I didn't feel comfortable taking off on a climbing trip and risking missing the birth of my first child, and not being around to help my wife during her time of need. Phil understood and we canceled the trip.
After about a week of no action on the baby front, my wife started encouraging me to go to the Tetons and get this climb done (probably so she didn't have to hear my talk about it anymore, and because she is very supportive of my good habits). Without too much effort, I was convinced and we started making plans to go again. A busy week of work postponed it a week, but we were ready to go.
Another appointment with the doctor a couple days before we were to leave confirmed that taking off at this point was too risky. My wife was partially dilated and mostly effaced, and the baby was a week away of being full-term. I called Phil up to apologize again. He understood and we made plans for a climb closer to home (since we both already had work off).
With that wordy introduction, here are some pictures and explanations of our climb of Stairway to Heaven in Provo Canyon:
Stairway to Heaven
Neither I nor Phil had ever climbed Stairway to Heaven. In fact, we had never done any ice climbing in Provo Canyon. Most of our ice climbing had either kept us closer to home, or led us to some larger mountains in Wyoming or deeper into the mountains of Utah. But, with a baby coming soon, we decided to get on something bigger than Ogden had to offer, but close enough I could get back quickly if necessary.
Phil took a nasty 65 foot tumble on snowy 4th class terrain about 3 weeks ago while approaching a gully of ice in Ogden. He smashed his face, knee, hip, elbow, and was bruised all over. He walked away from the fall, quite battered and sore, but still able to walk. He assumed he was just bruised all over, but even after 3 weeks, putting on a seatbelt hurt his hip and he still has some pain in various parts of his body that were banged up on his tumble.
As we approached the waterfall, our excitement grew. We had heard stories that Stairway can be quite busy, so we were psyched to see that we had the waterfall all to ourselves. Phil claimed the first pitch and I belayed.
Phil took a nasty 65 foot tumble on snowy 4th class terrain about 3 weeks ago while approaching a gully of ice in Ogden. He smashed his face, knee, hip, elbow, and was bruised all over. He walked away from the fall, quite battered and sore, but still able to walk. He assumed he was just bruised all over, but even after 3 weeks, putting on a seatbelt hurt his hip and he still has some pain in various parts of his body that were banged up on his tumble.
As we approached the waterfall, our excitement grew. We had heard stories that Stairway can be quite busy, so we were psyched to see that we had the waterfall all to ourselves. Phil claimed the first pitch and I belayed.
Approaching the waterfall.
Phil half way up the first pitch. Following the path of least resistance, P1 is WI3. Picking a steeper line could take it to WI4. Our path was probably WI3.
After leading the first pitch, Phil mentioned that his previous fall (from 3 weeks earlier) had gotten into his head a little, and that he'd like to top rope a pitch or two before he tried to lead something a little harder. In addition to that, his knee, hip, and arm still hadn't totally healed. So, I took pitch 2.
Myself on P2. I don't remember how long it was. Maybe 80-100 feet. WI4
Again P2.
Topping out on Pitch 2.
Myself heading up Pitch 3. It was only yesterday and I have already forgotten how long it is. I think about 80-100 feet and WI5 (according to Mountain Project, which only had the rating, not the length). The length to the belay anchor is much longer than 80 feet. It seemed like steeper climbing than the previous pitches, but not quite as steep as Pitch 5 which is also rated WI5.
Near the top of Pitch 3. Because it had been climbed a lot previously, this pitch went really quickly and easily with minimal effort. Happy hooking:)
My view from above Pitch 3. I didn't get many pictures of Phil because I usually couldn't see him as he followed.
After following a few pitches, Phil decided his head just wasn't in the game for the day and I gladly continued to lead. Phil is every bit the ice climber I am and would have cruised these pitches just fine. I've taken some falls, never as big or as bad as his recent fall, and took longer to recover and get back out climbing than he did. I'm impressed at how quickly he was back at it and don't blame him one bit for letting someone else lead.
I didn't get any pictures of Pitch 4. It was a shorter, albeit steep pillar. I'd guess it was about 25-30 feet. WI4. This ended up being one of the more difficult sections for me, simply because I got a tool stuck and had to fight for about 5 minutes to get it out. I swung the tool into a depression and sunk the pick fairly deep, with the top of the pick flush with the ice so I couldn't pry it up to get it out. I tried and tried for a few exhausting minutes before I put a screw in, shook out, and went at it again. I was afraid to chip at the ice above the pick for fear of having that pick (the one weight-bearing pick) come loose. So, I sunk my other tool about 4 feet above my stuck tool, matched on the higher tool, hiked my feet high, and kicked at the ice. Looking back, I think that was a pretty dumb thing to do. I could have potentially kicked the tool loose and lost it into the snow below (which was really only about 20 feet below) and been stuck with one tool. Oh well, it worked, I got the tool loose, and I topped out on the 30ish foot pillar, somewhat pumped and tired. What normally would have taken 5 minutes to climb probably took about 20. But I didn't get any pictures of this pitch and Phil didn't either. I think he was watching intently, waiting for me to do something stupid and fall.
Anyway, I pulled over the top and got a look at Pitch 5, the crux of the pitches that were in. We were hoping that they would be in up to Pitch 7, but no luck.
After the short pillar on Pitch 4, there is a small snowfield and then some low-angle ice leading up to the P5 pillar. I belayed at the base of the pillar.
This is another view of P5 on the descent. It was a really fun pitch. There were a few bulges that almost made the climbing feel a little overhung in places, though I doubt that was the case.
Myself traversing out onto the pillar. I had gloved stuffed in my jacket. I'm really not that fat.
The views of the canyon from this high were incredible. There was ice all over the cliffs on both sides of the canyon. I couldn't believe it. There was as much ice in just this small section of canyon as there is in all of Ogden and its surrounding areas.
With that said, I think I'd put Ogden's ice climbs up against almost any other ice climb of similar size and difficulty. I'd put Malan's waterfall up against almost any 3-pitch, WI5 climb around. I'd put Willard Waterfall up against almost any multi-pitch WI3 climb around. The beauty of the surroundings and the exposure (of Malan's 2nd pitch in particular) make these climbs incredible and classics, in my opinion.
Ok, back to Stairway.
Phil at the belay.
Though Pitch 5 is steeper, there was a narrow runnel that allowed for a little bit of stemming lower on the pitch. The whole pitch went pretty smooth. Up high I got a tool stuck again (same way as before), but got it out much quicker this time with a little bit of chipping from the other tool. It did wear me out though. This pitch was about 100 feet of steep climbing, followed by about a 75 foot snowfield to the anchors. There wasn't enough ice on pitches 6 or 7 to climb, unless we wanted to do some mixed climbing, which we weren't really prepared for (in time or enthusiasm).
More stemming.
A bit higher.
More of the same.
After topping out on P5, we started rapping back down. At the top of P2, I dropped a glove which slid down over the edge of the waterfall. We had to work around another group that was heading up, which led me to forget about the glove. We rapped down to the bottom of the waterfall before I realized I forgot to find that glove. Phil hadn't come all the way down yet, so he headed back up and I belayed myself back up while he looked for the glove. By the time I'd climbed back up the first pitch, Phil had been looking for 15 minutes without any luck.
I decided to climb halfway up the 2nd pitch to see if I could find the glove.
The glove slid down through the gully that is just up and right from where I am on this climb. When I peeked my head up over the ice, the glove was sitting right there smiling at me. This glove was a recent gift from my wife for Valentine's Day. There was no way I could have gone home without it. I'm grateful to her for the gloves. They worked incredibly well on this climb. Rab M14 gloves. I recommend them.
Monday, February 18, 2013
Efficiency in the Mountains - 10 things to consider
I have always enjoyed being in the mountains. When I was young (I'm still pretty young, so think elementary school age), I would beg my parents to go hiking. I started out backpacking when I was 8 with my dad, started rock climbing when I was 12 or so, started skiing at about the same time, started skiing in the backcountry when I was about 17 or 18, etc. When I was about 16, I started to get into lightweight backpacking. As fun as it was to hike with a 50 lb pack for multiple days in a row, I realized how much more fun it is to hike twice as far with half the weight. I then got into better shape, trimmed a little more weight off my pack, and covered triple the distance and felt better doing it.
Since then, moving more efficiently in the mountains has been an ongoing process for me; an obsession, really. I think most other mountain athletes feel the same way. That is why there are websites, forums, blogs, etc dedicated to gear reviews, technique, gear lists, trip reports, etc. It has led me to constantly buy and sell gear, train, trial and error including shivering through many cold nights, bonking because I ran out of food, hallucinating from lack of sleep, etc.
Here are a few observations I have made over the years for moving efficiently in the mountains. None of this is groundbreaking. Many others have made the same observations and some of them may seem like common knowledge, but here they are anyway:
1. Lighten up and keep the weight close to the body: The lighter the weight on the body, the less energy it takes to move it. I think we all understand this concept. The next concept is maybe not so well understood, but equally important. The closer the weight is to the core of the body, the less energy it takes to move it. The further weight is from the body, the more energy it takes to move it. For example, it takes far more energy to carry a 16oz handheld water bottle on a trail run than it does to carry 32oz of water in a backpack on the back, assuming the pack is riding correctly. That's why having lightweight running shoes or mountaineering boots is so important. Put 4lb boots (per foot) on you feet and hike up a mountain with 2lb boots (per foot) in your pack and you'll get tired much more quickly than having the 2lb boots on your feet and the 4lb boots on your back. Keeping the heavier weight where it moves the least (close to the body) is more efficient than using your energy to move the weight. The physics of this are quite easy to understand, but more difficult to explain (and I already tend to be long-winded). Hopefully this much explanation makes sense.
2. Use gear that fits correctly:
I've always liked a good-fitting piece of gear. Not only does it feel nice to wear and looks good, but it is more efficient and less frustrating to use. The less time one can spend fiddling with/fixing gear, the more time there is to actually climb/ski. The best gear is usually the stuff you forget you have on.
For example, there are few things that bother me more than jackets that pull out of a harness when I reach above my head. If my jacket pulls out and then covers up ice screws, cams, quickdraws, etc., it's extremely annoying, slows down climbing progress a bit, and then I have to tuck the jacket back in later, only to have it eventually pull out again. This is a deal breaker for me in a climbing jacket. That's not as important to me in a skiing jacket, but I still prefer to have a climbing-compatible shell for skiing, especially because the line separating skiing and climbing terrain is becoming more and more blurred. For me, most Rab climbing jackets have a good climbing cut that stays tucked in and doesn't restrict movement, while still being trim fit. Arc'teryx does as well. Most companies' climbing specific clothing is pretty good, but I have found Rab and Arc'teryx to have a reliably good cut for climbing and skiing.
Another thing that bothers me is wearing pants that either are not stretchy enough, or aren't long enough (but if they're too long, they're baggy and catch crampons). I either add grommets to my pant hems or buy pants that already have grommets in the hem. I do this so I can tie the hem down tight to my boots with a string under the instep and I don't have to wear gaiters. This saves weight (no gaiters), saves time having to put the gaiters on, and keeps me drier (in my experience, most gaiters trap as much moisture as they keep out). One problem I run into is if the pants are too short or there is not enough stretch in the material, they add resistance to movement, causing me to expend more energy. This may not be a real big deal on a short outing, but over the course of many hours or days and tens of thousands of steps, it adds up to a lot of extra energy spent unnecessarily.
The same thing is true when a jacket isn't cut quite right and one has to rely on stretch only to allow full range of motion while climbing. Though stretch is great and, in my opinion, necessary to have a good climbing piece, if one is fighting the resistance of the stretch of a jacket every time he/she reaches high to swing a tool or grab a hold, extra energy is being expended unnecessarily. That's like adding a small amount of weight to one's hands and then reaching above the head hundreds or thousands of times. You may not feel it in the first hour, but over the course of a day the extra resistance adds up. There is a fine line between finding a shell jacket or pants that has enough articulation and room to move freely (and the stretch steps in for the occasional awkward move or extreme reach), and being too baggy that it's heavier than is necessary and gets in the way (like not being able to see your feet over extra fabric in the body of a jacket).
Unless you're into wearing lycra clothing (think skimo race clothing), there usually isn't enough stretch in winter outerwear to overcome bad articulation. In fact, I don't think there's enough stretch in a lycra race suit to overcome bad articulation.
3. Choose clothing that's soft and supple: I like durable clothing, but I don't like stiff clothing. Stiff clothing tires me out (it's likely as much a mental thing for me as a physical thing). For example, the Marmot Zion Jacket, as great as the Neoshell Softshell material is and as robust as the face fabric feels, it is just too stiff for me. Not that I wouldn't wear it (it's actually one of the better cold weather softshells around, in my opinion). But, in comparison, the Marmot Nabu jacket has a much more supple face fabric. You may sacrifice some durability (though I think the fabric is still quite robust), but it feels less restricting to me, and I think the major reason for that is the face fabric. The cut is very similar to the Zion (if not the same). A stiffer fabric takes more energy to move as you move. So, if the decision is between two similar pieces of clothing, for climbing I'd choose the one that is more supple.
Usually light weight and suppleness go hand in hand. The lighter weight the jacket is, the more supple the fabric. But on occasion, that's not the case. It's worth trying to consider what will save you the most energy in the long run--less weight or a softer hand. In most cases I'd guess that weight wins out, but not always.
If you take two jackets that are the exact same weight and have the exact same cut, the jacket with the stiffer face fabric will feel heavier than the other jacket because it takes a little more energy to move in it.
For example, there are few things that bother me more than jackets that pull out of a harness when I reach above my head. If my jacket pulls out and then covers up ice screws, cams, quickdraws, etc., it's extremely annoying, slows down climbing progress a bit, and then I have to tuck the jacket back in later, only to have it eventually pull out again. This is a deal breaker for me in a climbing jacket. That's not as important to me in a skiing jacket, but I still prefer to have a climbing-compatible shell for skiing, especially because the line separating skiing and climbing terrain is becoming more and more blurred. For me, most Rab climbing jackets have a good climbing cut that stays tucked in and doesn't restrict movement, while still being trim fit. Arc'teryx does as well. Most companies' climbing specific clothing is pretty good, but I have found Rab and Arc'teryx to have a reliably good cut for climbing and skiing.
Another thing that bothers me is wearing pants that either are not stretchy enough, or aren't long enough (but if they're too long, they're baggy and catch crampons). I either add grommets to my pant hems or buy pants that already have grommets in the hem. I do this so I can tie the hem down tight to my boots with a string under the instep and I don't have to wear gaiters. This saves weight (no gaiters), saves time having to put the gaiters on, and keeps me drier (in my experience, most gaiters trap as much moisture as they keep out). One problem I run into is if the pants are too short or there is not enough stretch in the material, they add resistance to movement, causing me to expend more energy. This may not be a real big deal on a short outing, but over the course of many hours or days and tens of thousands of steps, it adds up to a lot of extra energy spent unnecessarily.
The same thing is true when a jacket isn't cut quite right and one has to rely on stretch only to allow full range of motion while climbing. Though stretch is great and, in my opinion, necessary to have a good climbing piece, if one is fighting the resistance of the stretch of a jacket every time he/she reaches high to swing a tool or grab a hold, extra energy is being expended unnecessarily. That's like adding a small amount of weight to one's hands and then reaching above the head hundreds or thousands of times. You may not feel it in the first hour, but over the course of a day the extra resistance adds up. There is a fine line between finding a shell jacket or pants that has enough articulation and room to move freely (and the stretch steps in for the occasional awkward move or extreme reach), and being too baggy that it's heavier than is necessary and gets in the way (like not being able to see your feet over extra fabric in the body of a jacket).
Unless you're into wearing lycra clothing (think skimo race clothing), there usually isn't enough stretch in winter outerwear to overcome bad articulation. In fact, I don't think there's enough stretch in a lycra race suit to overcome bad articulation.
3. Choose clothing that's soft and supple: I like durable clothing, but I don't like stiff clothing. Stiff clothing tires me out (it's likely as much a mental thing for me as a physical thing). For example, the Marmot Zion Jacket, as great as the Neoshell Softshell material is and as robust as the face fabric feels, it is just too stiff for me. Not that I wouldn't wear it (it's actually one of the better cold weather softshells around, in my opinion). But, in comparison, the Marmot Nabu jacket has a much more supple face fabric. You may sacrifice some durability (though I think the fabric is still quite robust), but it feels less restricting to me, and I think the major reason for that is the face fabric. The cut is very similar to the Zion (if not the same). A stiffer fabric takes more energy to move as you move. So, if the decision is between two similar pieces of clothing, for climbing I'd choose the one that is more supple.
Usually light weight and suppleness go hand in hand. The lighter weight the jacket is, the more supple the fabric. But on occasion, that's not the case. It's worth trying to consider what will save you the most energy in the long run--less weight or a softer hand. In most cases I'd guess that weight wins out, but not always.
If you take two jackets that are the exact same weight and have the exact same cut, the jacket with the stiffer face fabric will feel heavier than the other jacket because it takes a little more energy to move in it.
4. When ski touring, use tech binding and boots with big articulation: I am not the most experienced in speed touring or skimo racing, but I have cut my car-to-summit-to-car time in almost half from last year to this year on my favorite local peak, Ben Lomond. A few things that made the difference are lighter gear (skis, boots, and bindings), tech bindings (much more efficient to tour in than Fritschis or other AT Bindings), and boots with good articulation.
First of all, skimo gear is getting extremely light and great for skiing. For example, I'm skiing now with a pair of TLT 5 Performance boots. They ski as well as my previous alpine boots, have incredible articulation, and weigh about 1/3 the weight of my previous alpine boots.
I splurged on the size of my skis. I bought the Dynafit Huascaran. I increased the waist from last year to this year by almost 20mm, but I decreased the weight of the ski by about 200g per ski from my previous BD skis. I could have gone a lot lighter by getting a skinnier ski, but I'm a sucker for powder, and big skis are more fun in powder, in my opinion (and more efficient, at least on the downhill).
This weight savings has been nice, but the biggest difference has been in the binding. I used to ski and tour with Fritschi Freeride bindings. I have now gone to the Dynafit Speed Radical. The weight savings is huge, but possibly the biggest increase in efficiency comes from not having to pick up half the binding with my foot with every step I take. With Fritschis, Dukes, Barons, Guardians, etc., your boot is attached to most of the binding for every step. This means, even if you have a light boot, you add the weight of half of the binding to your foot with each step. It would be more efficient to have a slightly heavier tech binding and only lift the weight of the boot with each step than have a slightly lighter Fritschi, for example, and lift the binding with every step. With that said, tech bindings are almost always way lighter than the other options as well as more efficient. Not to mention the pivot point is usually further back on tech bindings (which is also more efficient), though most other bindings are getting better in that regard.
There are a lot of other techniques to moving fast while ski touring that I haven't mentioned here and am still learning about. Some good resources that I suggest for ski mountaineering are the following blogs:
http://www.getstrongergolonger.com
http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com
http://jasondorais.blogspot.com
http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com
5. Keep equipment tuned: Whether it means swinging less because your picks are sharp or skiing faster and safer because your skis are waxed, edges are sharp, etc., keeping equipment in good condition is important for it to last longer, to travel safer, and to travel more efficiently. I find that when my picks are nice and sharp, I have to swing less for a solid stick, I displace less ice, I don't have to swing quite as hard, etc. Sometimes cleaning ice tools when they're super sharp is a little more work, but I find that efficient cleaning of ice tools has more to do with pick profile and my body placement when pulling the tool out than most anything else. I am less likely to overdrive a tool when it's sharp too, which makes removal easier.
Keeping skins in good shape is also important. A skin failure due to glue that needs replacing or your skins soak up water on a warm day and snow clumps to them are both ways to move very inefficiently.
6. Hike/climb slightly cool: Cool muscles are more efficient than warm muscles.
If you stay on the cool side while hiking, you're not going to sweat as much (and lose vital fluids and electrolytes) which means you're less likely to cramp, or it takes longer to cramp. It also means you have to carry less fluids to replace those you lose.
Also, if you sweat less, your clothes stay drier, warmer, etc., and you have to carry less clothing to stay comfortable.
7. Drink before you're thirsty, eat before your hungry: When a person feels thirsty, they are already dehydrated. When that person feels hungry, they have already depleted energy stores. When that person gets behind on his/her nutrition, they bonk, and it's very hard to catch back up, especially without stopping and resting for a while. When a person bonks, they stop moving, they feel like garbage, and they stop having fun. Moving efficiently is, after all, about having more fun in a given time period.
8. Multitask when possible: If I'm on a pitch that is too technical to simul-climb, I try to multi task at belays (when belaying from above). This may mean organizing gear, eating, drinking, brewing, looking at a topo and figuring out where the next pitches go, etc. This is easy to do with auto-locking devices. I don't generally multitask when belaying from below. I like my belayer to be paying close attention to me when I'm leading, so I try to do the same for them.
9. Don't cut corners when safety is involved: Nothing makes you move less efficiently than death. When in the backcountry, take time to check snow conditions. Dig a pit if you need to. But this is stuff that should be practiced before getting in the backcountry so that digging a pit or doing snow tests don't take all day. I am tempted at times to just keep moving instead of stopping and making sure conditions are safe for travel. I imagine others feel the same way at times. Don't do it. You may get away with it a few times, but the time that you don't, you've really slowed the group down.
10. Get in better physical condition: This one is a no brainer, but I feel like it is sometimes lost in the search for lighter and better gear. This is probably the most important of all of the items listed. Going light and efficient is great, but at a certain point one's body just runs out of juice. Better physical fitness allows a person to do more with less energy expended.
I mentioned that I cut my car-to-car ski touring time in almost half on a local mountain by having lighter and more efficient gear. Well, that is true, but a big component of my personal success on this mountain is better physical fitness. I have been doing more running this fall and winter that has upped my cardio abilities. I have noticed a huge difference, when combined with lighter weight gear, in my ability to cover ground faster and feel better while doing it.
A few failures in the mountains have been due to nasty weather. A few from carrying too much gear. But the majority of failures I've had in the mountains have been due to not being in good enough shape, and most of my successes have been during periods of my life when I was in my best shape.
There are many more things that contribute to moving efficiently in the mountains, but I'll probably have to get to those some other time. This post has already become much longer than I intended.
Anyway, what are some things that I missed that help you move more efficiently in the mountains?
First of all, skimo gear is getting extremely light and great for skiing. For example, I'm skiing now with a pair of TLT 5 Performance boots. They ski as well as my previous alpine boots, have incredible articulation, and weigh about 1/3 the weight of my previous alpine boots.
I splurged on the size of my skis. I bought the Dynafit Huascaran. I increased the waist from last year to this year by almost 20mm, but I decreased the weight of the ski by about 200g per ski from my previous BD skis. I could have gone a lot lighter by getting a skinnier ski, but I'm a sucker for powder, and big skis are more fun in powder, in my opinion (and more efficient, at least on the downhill).
This weight savings has been nice, but the biggest difference has been in the binding. I used to ski and tour with Fritschi Freeride bindings. I have now gone to the Dynafit Speed Radical. The weight savings is huge, but possibly the biggest increase in efficiency comes from not having to pick up half the binding with my foot with every step I take. With Fritschis, Dukes, Barons, Guardians, etc., your boot is attached to most of the binding for every step. This means, even if you have a light boot, you add the weight of half of the binding to your foot with each step. It would be more efficient to have a slightly heavier tech binding and only lift the weight of the boot with each step than have a slightly lighter Fritschi, for example, and lift the binding with every step. With that said, tech bindings are almost always way lighter than the other options as well as more efficient. Not to mention the pivot point is usually further back on tech bindings (which is also more efficient), though most other bindings are getting better in that regard.
There are a lot of other techniques to moving fast while ski touring that I haven't mentioned here and am still learning about. Some good resources that I suggest for ski mountaineering are the following blogs:
http://www.getstrongergolonger.com
http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com
http://jasondorais.blogspot.com
http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com
5. Keep equipment tuned: Whether it means swinging less because your picks are sharp or skiing faster and safer because your skis are waxed, edges are sharp, etc., keeping equipment in good condition is important for it to last longer, to travel safer, and to travel more efficiently. I find that when my picks are nice and sharp, I have to swing less for a solid stick, I displace less ice, I don't have to swing quite as hard, etc. Sometimes cleaning ice tools when they're super sharp is a little more work, but I find that efficient cleaning of ice tools has more to do with pick profile and my body placement when pulling the tool out than most anything else. I am less likely to overdrive a tool when it's sharp too, which makes removal easier.
Keeping skins in good shape is also important. A skin failure due to glue that needs replacing or your skins soak up water on a warm day and snow clumps to them are both ways to move very inefficiently.
6. Hike/climb slightly cool: Cool muscles are more efficient than warm muscles.
If you stay on the cool side while hiking, you're not going to sweat as much (and lose vital fluids and electrolytes) which means you're less likely to cramp, or it takes longer to cramp. It also means you have to carry less fluids to replace those you lose.
Also, if you sweat less, your clothes stay drier, warmer, etc., and you have to carry less clothing to stay comfortable.
7. Drink before you're thirsty, eat before your hungry: When a person feels thirsty, they are already dehydrated. When that person feels hungry, they have already depleted energy stores. When that person gets behind on his/her nutrition, they bonk, and it's very hard to catch back up, especially without stopping and resting for a while. When a person bonks, they stop moving, they feel like garbage, and they stop having fun. Moving efficiently is, after all, about having more fun in a given time period.
8. Multitask when possible: If I'm on a pitch that is too technical to simul-climb, I try to multi task at belays (when belaying from above). This may mean organizing gear, eating, drinking, brewing, looking at a topo and figuring out where the next pitches go, etc. This is easy to do with auto-locking devices. I don't generally multitask when belaying from below. I like my belayer to be paying close attention to me when I'm leading, so I try to do the same for them.
9. Don't cut corners when safety is involved: Nothing makes you move less efficiently than death. When in the backcountry, take time to check snow conditions. Dig a pit if you need to. But this is stuff that should be practiced before getting in the backcountry so that digging a pit or doing snow tests don't take all day. I am tempted at times to just keep moving instead of stopping and making sure conditions are safe for travel. I imagine others feel the same way at times. Don't do it. You may get away with it a few times, but the time that you don't, you've really slowed the group down.
10. Get in better physical condition: This one is a no brainer, but I feel like it is sometimes lost in the search for lighter and better gear. This is probably the most important of all of the items listed. Going light and efficient is great, but at a certain point one's body just runs out of juice. Better physical fitness allows a person to do more with less energy expended.
I mentioned that I cut my car-to-car ski touring time in almost half on a local mountain by having lighter and more efficient gear. Well, that is true, but a big component of my personal success on this mountain is better physical fitness. I have been doing more running this fall and winter that has upped my cardio abilities. I have noticed a huge difference, when combined with lighter weight gear, in my ability to cover ground faster and feel better while doing it.
A few failures in the mountains have been due to nasty weather. A few from carrying too much gear. But the majority of failures I've had in the mountains have been due to not being in good enough shape, and most of my successes have been during periods of my life when I was in my best shape.
There are many more things that contribute to moving efficiently in the mountains, but I'll probably have to get to those some other time. This post has already become much longer than I intended.
Anyway, what are some things that I missed that help you move more efficiently in the mountains?
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Marmot Nabu Neoshell Softshell Highlight
Part of this article was already posted. This is the rest of it.
One of the most searched Marmot products in the past year has been the Zion jacket, according to the local Marmot sales rep. That doesn't surprise me. In a short time after posting Phil's review of the Zion jacket on this blog, it moved up to the second most read review and is still there. We have been quite impressed with the Zion Jacket over the last year or so, but as was stated in the review, it isn't perfect. The best part of the jacket is the Neoshell in a softshell application. It breathes very well without the cool feeling that tends to accompany Neoshell hardshells. The downside of the jacket is that it's on the heavy side and it is quite warm, making it a little less versatile during the warmer months.
When I saw the Marmot Nabu jacket at summer OR in July, I couldn't wait to get my hands on it. It seemed to me like they took mine and Phil's complaints about the Zion jacket , fixed them, and called it the Nabu. I am happy to say that the Nabu jacket showed up at GEAR:30 last week, one of the few placed around that have them this early.
*I haven't been able to use it yet, but from trying it on and checking it out in the store, I have not been disappointed. I think this could be the ideal foul weather active piece for the whole year.
So, here are some pictures and descriptions of the jacket, as well as some specs.
One of the most searched Marmot products in the past year has been the Zion jacket, according to the local Marmot sales rep. That doesn't surprise me. In a short time after posting Phil's review of the Zion jacket on this blog, it moved up to the second most read review and is still there. We have been quite impressed with the Zion Jacket over the last year or so, but as was stated in the review, it isn't perfect. The best part of the jacket is the Neoshell in a softshell application. It breathes very well without the cool feeling that tends to accompany Neoshell hardshells. The downside of the jacket is that it's on the heavy side and it is quite warm, making it a little less versatile during the warmer months.
When I saw the Marmot Nabu jacket at summer OR in July, I couldn't wait to get my hands on it. It seemed to me like they took mine and Phil's complaints about the Zion jacket , fixed them, and called it the Nabu. I am happy to say that the Nabu jacket showed up at GEAR:30 last week, one of the few placed around that have them this early.
*I haven't been able to use it yet, but from trying it on and checking it out in the store, I have not been disappointed. I think this could be the ideal foul weather active piece for the whole year.
So, here are some pictures and descriptions of the jacket, as well as some specs.
Nabu Specs
- Weight: 21.6oz (Men's Medium). In comparison, the Zion weighs 26oz in size Medium
- 2 handwarmer Pockets
- 1 external zip chest pocket
- 1 internal zip pocket with headphone port
- Adjustable cuffs
- Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood (truly helmet-compatible, unlike the current Zion)
- Drawcord hem
- Lightly insulated
Pictures and Descriptions
The Men's Marmot Nabu Jacket. If you like the Zion, I'm pretty sure you'll love the Nabu. If you didn't like the Zion, I'm pretty sure you'll like the Nabu.
The women's color. A vibrant red with blue zippers. It's a really nice color combination, in my opinion. So far we've had only good feedback from women on the color and fit of this jacket.
Not sure what happened to the color on this picture, but it is actually the same jacket as above, just a little washed out. Anyway, there is a single zippered interior pocket on the inside. It is big enough for a smart phone, wallet, etc. Taped seams, Neoshell, and the light grid-mesh liner (which help to wick moisture) make this one of the most breathable, fully waterproof jackets on the market. This used a similar application as Marmot did on the Zion jacket, but used a lighter interior liner fabric and exterior face fabric, which I can only imagine make the jacket more breathable, lighter, but probably less warm.
Detail of the interior grid mesh material. At first I was calling it a really light grid-fleece liner, but it doesn't really feel much like fleece. It goes over layers better than fleece, but also isn't quite as soft as fleece. I think calling it a mesh is more accurate.
Polartec Neoshell in a softshell application. Neoshell is incredible as a waterproof membrane. It breathes far better than any other membrane I've used to date. The downside is that, in a hardshell application, it moves humid air away from the body so efficiently that it can feel a little colder than other waterproof/windproof shells. Not as ideal to wear while sitting on a cold ski lift. For example, when I wear a Gore-tex shell, I can plan on the shell adding about 10 degrees of warmth to my layering system, at least until I get sweaty. And unless I'm cold all day, I almost always get sweaty in Gore-tex. With Neoshell, it doesn't trap much heat. When I wear a Neoshell hardshell, I don't plan on it adding any warmth to my layering system, so I dress accordingly. But I also expect that, if I've dressed correctly for the conditions, I either won't get sweaty during the day, or I'll dry off fairly quickly while still wearing my shell.
In softshell application, I and Phil have found that it breathes even better than in the hardshell (because the liner wicks moisture, I'd imagine), but it doesn't feel as cool as in a hardshell. You don't get a slight chill when you're resting at the bottom of a frozen waterfall after a 45 minute approach, like you do in the hardshell. It is just comfortable. I think that the Neoshell softshell application is the best performing waterproof material so far.
The hood has an aperture drawcord the pulls the hood tight around the face. The rest of the cord remains on the inside of the jacket. Though this is clean and keeps the cord from smacking you in the face in high winds, it forces you to unzip the jacket tighten the hood.
There is a second drawcord at the back of the hood that takes extra volume out of the hood and allows the hood to move with your head. This hood can actually be worn with a helmet. More on that in a minute.
I am 6'2", 190 lbs or so, and this is a Medium. The Medium fits trim with little extra room to layer, but it is still a comfortable fit. The large was a little roomier and allowed room to layer, but didn't seem too baggy. I usually go for the trimmer fitting layers, but in this case, I liked the Large better for my size. I think the medium would be a better fit for those that are under 175-180 lbs or so or you prefer a trimmer fit. The face fabric on the Nabu is not as stiff as on the Zion, so the medium Nabu is a much more comfortable fit, in my opinion, than the medium Zion.
The hood fits nicely without a helmet.
The hood also fits nicely with a helmet. The Zion jacket's hood was not quite big enough for a helmet, in my opinion. When you zip the Zion up with a helmet on, the fabric is super tight across the mouth. The Nabu has a little more room and is comfortable to wear zipped up with the hood over a helmet.
The hem still pulls up a bit with arms up, but not enough to pull out of a harness. The cut isn't as good for climbing as the Rab jackets I've used, but it is a little more comfortable cut, especially under the armpits, than the Rab. The only place I think the cut is a downer is when climbing. Unfortunately, that's exactly what I want this jacket for.
The jacket has a drop hem in the back. The sleeves are a comfortable length on me (I have pretty average arms). For those that have longer-than-normal arms, the sleeve length may be a little frustrating when climbing in the jacket. For most people, the length should be fine.
There is great stretch in this jacket. Because of the stretch and the softer face fabric, it is a very comfortable jacket to move in. It feels less restricting than the Zion. It also feels significantly lighter than the Zion. Even though it is only 4.5oz lighter than the Zion, it feel to me like it's much lighter. I think that is because the face fabric is thinner and more supple and the wearer has to put in less effort to move in it than the Zion.
More stretch.
Final Observations
Both Phil and I have been very impressed with the Zion jacket, but mostly with the softshell Neoshell fabric. The jacket itself, needs some work. Marmot told me that the hood is being revamped on the Zion jacket to better accommodate a helmet. That's definitely a much needed update. But there were multiple gripes that we had with the Zion jacket that we felt needed to be addressed. To review, here they are:
- Hood to small/jacket too trim around the mouth
- Fabric too heavy
- Jacket too warm for shoulder seasons and warmer winter days
- Too many pockets (interior pockets, many exterior pockets, a shoulder pocket, etc)
- Medium fit well in the body but pulled up out of a harness when lifting hands above the head
I think the Marmot Nabu remedies all of these problems, except maybe the jacket pulling up too much when lifting hands above the head.
The hood is much better than on the Zion.
The fabric is lighter and more supple, making the jacket feel much lighter than the Zion, even though there's only a 4.5oz difference.
The grid-mesh liner fabric is much lighter than the fleece used in the Zion jacket, making the jacket less warm (which I consider a good thing, though many may disagree with me on that). The fact that this jacket is less warm means it's a better 4-season jacket, instead of a cold weather only jacket that I feel the Zion is.
There are less pockets on the Nabu. Only one less, but that's a start. They got rid of the arm pocket that is on the Zion. I like the pockets that are on the Nabu. They make it a more versatile jacket. If I was designing the perfect climbing jacket, I would have taken off even more pockets, but the pocket configuration on the Nabu are fine. They're out of the way of a harness/hipbelt, so I'm happy.
The jacket doesn't come untucked out of a harness when I lift my arms. This is true about both medium and large sizes. It does pull up a little and then bellow out over the harness a bit, but most of my jackets do. This cut is as good for climbing as most any I have tried, Rab and Arc'teryx not included.
Overall I am super impressed with the jacket. I haven't used it yet in the mountains, so my mind could very well be changed in the coming months, but so far I think it could be one of the best active jackets on the market.
Wednesday, February 6, 2013
Citizen Series Skimo Race
Last night I had the opportunity to participate in one of the Citizen Series skimo races that are put on by some Salt Lake skimo guys. I've read about them for a long time on various blogs (Andy Dorais, Jason Dorais', Jared Inouye's, etc) and have been wanting to participate, but a busy schedule with work and family have kept me from going until yesterday.
The format was a team sprint relay, with two people per team making 3-4 laps each. One lap consisted of two climbs (probably about 3-400 vertical feet each or so), a booter section, and 3 transitions. This was my first taste of skimo "racing", so I wasn't sure what to expect, but it was an absolute blast. The casual atmosphere was comfortable to a newby like myself, everybody was friendly, and it was good to get my heart rate up in the clean air with other like-minded people.
I didn't get any pictures of the event, but for all those that enjoy being fit and skiing/ski touring, I highly suggest checking out these races. They are free, fun, there's swag for first-timers, and pies for the winners. It's worth the drive up to Brighton ski resort, even for those whose drive is a bit longer, like myself.
I can't wait til the next race on the 19th.
For more info on these races, check out:
http://citizenseries.wasatchpowderkeg.com
The format was a team sprint relay, with two people per team making 3-4 laps each. One lap consisted of two climbs (probably about 3-400 vertical feet each or so), a booter section, and 3 transitions. This was my first taste of skimo "racing", so I wasn't sure what to expect, but it was an absolute blast. The casual atmosphere was comfortable to a newby like myself, everybody was friendly, and it was good to get my heart rate up in the clean air with other like-minded people.
I didn't get any pictures of the event, but for all those that enjoy being fit and skiing/ski touring, I highly suggest checking out these races. They are free, fun, there's swag for first-timers, and pies for the winners. It's worth the drive up to Brighton ski resort, even for those whose drive is a bit longer, like myself.
I can't wait til the next race on the 19th.
For more info on these races, check out:
http://citizenseries.wasatchpowderkeg.com
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