A look back at this winter's favorite gear

I can't help it.  It's been 70 degrees and sunny in Ogden and my  mind is automatically shifting from ice to rock climbing.  I have been trying to stay focused on ice climbing because I have a trip coming up to some higher mountains and bigger lines.  I have been watching ice climbing videos, training on my ice tools, and playing with my other ice climbing gear, but the whole time I'm dreaming about all the long rock routes I want to do this summer.

So, as ice season is passing in Ogden, I want to briefly reflect on my favorite gear from this winter.  This is gear that has been with me on pretty much every outing and I am very happy with.  I will also add a few pieces of gear that Phil has been using all winter and loving.  I will not be adding pieces that I have taken climbing out of default (because I have no other option).  This is all gear that I love and therefore CHOOSE to take with me instead of a different option.

I have been able to ice climb about 30 days this winter, which isn't a ton, but I feel pretty happy with it, considering I'm a full-time student and in the process of opening a business.

The Gear

Black Diamond Torque Gloves- These gloves are awesome!  The grip is incredible and the dexterity is hard to beat.  I layer a light merino liner under them and my hands have been warm from 15-30 degree teperatures.  I think I only got the screaming barfies once this winter.  These gloves are a little light duty, I'm afraid.  30 days of ice, a few days of drytooling, some training on a plice tower, and some hiking and they are ready to be replaced.  I guess they're not really designed to be a a heavy-duty glove.  But, even though the grip is getting pretty worn, they have still been quite water-resistant.

Arc'teryx Rho ltw zip baselayer- I have a lot of other baselayers, but this is always my first choice.  If I have two or three outings planned in a week, I save this one for the best climb and use the others on lesser climbs.  This baselayer is super comfortable, wicks moisture well and dries quickly, doesn't stink, even after 3 years of using year-round, and fits extremely well.  It has long, stretchy sleeves which I really appreciate for ice climbing.  Sometimes I'll tuck the sleeves into my torque gloves to keep my wrists covered, which really helps to keep my hands warm.  It is also super durable.  I have scummed up chimneys, hiked countless miles with a pack, and washed it probably 150 times, and it still looks new.

NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody- I have already written many times about this piece (http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/lightweight-midlayers-my-favorites.html).  The combination of lightweight, quick-drying material, great design and fit, and affordable price tag make this one of the best base/midlayers I have ever used.  I do occasionally wear this as a baselayer and it works quite well.  I rarely go climbing without it.

Arc'teryx Acto MX Hoody- I have already done an in-depth review on this piece (http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/02/arcteryx-acto-mx-hoody-review.html), and my opinion hasn't changed.  I have been looking a lot at other softshell jackets, but I can't think of a better material for active use during the winter than what is used on this jacket.  Maybe Neoshell.  This jacket has pretty much replaced my hardshell (I used my hardshell three times this winter, two of which were skiing).  It does let a little bit more wind through than I would consider ideal for a shell, but when moving fast, I rarely get sweaty (I sweat, but it evaporates quickly).

Marmot Zion Jacket- This has been Phil's go-to jacket all winter long.  Whenever we were hiking or climbing and I was sure he'd be overheating and sweaty, I'd ask him how he feels and he'd reply, "I feel great!  I can't believe how well this jacket breathes!"  He'd often throw the jacket on to dry off once we got up to a climb and were racking up.  Read an in-depth review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/marmot-zion-neoshell-jacket-review.html

Arc'teryx Atom LT Hoody- This jacket goes almost everywhere with me, winter or summer.  It has mostly been my belay jacket this winter because temperatures have been fairly mild.  On really cold mornings, it turns into my climbing jacket.  I love EVERYTHING about this jacket.  If you don't have one yet, you're missing out, in my opinion.  A better review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/01/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoody-i-just-wanted-to.html

Mid-October climbing on the Middle Teton in the Atom LT Hoody

NWAlpine Fast/Light Pant- In-depth review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/02/nwalpine-fast-and-light-pant.html.  I love the fit, simplicity, key features, and material of these pants.  They aren't perfect, but pretty close, and for $110 they are hard to beat.  My go-to pant for pretty  much all winter activities, especially climbing.

Cilogear Worksack- I haven't even touched another backpack this winter (except for my bc skiing pack), and I have seven other packs to choose from.  I imagine it will be my go-to pack on most summer climbing outings as well.  Full review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/cilogear-worksack-60l-review.html.  My only regret with this pack is that I didn't also get a 30 liter worksack.

Camp Awax and Cassin X-All Mountain Tools- I have used many other tools over the years, including Nomics, Quarks, Vipers, Cobras, and Reactors, and I haven't found another tool that I like better than the Camp Awax and Cassin X-All Mountain.  I even spent a week in Ouray with all of these tools side-by-side (except the Cassins), and my consensus was that the Awax was my favorite (the Nomic being a fairly close second).  Phil has been climbing with the X-All Mountain tools this winter and ended up selling his other set (Reactors) because he didn't think he would use them again.  I think that the X-All Mountain is possibly the most underestimated tool on the market.  The picks on these tools penetrate all types of ice extremely well (sometimes too well, but a little modification to the picks help them pull out of the ice easier).  They have held up quite well to drytooling and even camming in horizontal cracks.  Great tools!

CAMP Awax Tools

Cassin X-All Mountain Tools

Petzl Dartwins- This is the first year I have owned Dartwins, but I have never used a better crampon for vertical ice and mixed.  They skate a little too much on low-angle ice, but I don't even want to touch my other crampons when I'm headed to climb a waterfall.  They do tear holes in my pants a little more efficiently than other I've used, but I was amazed at how much more secure my feet feel on steep ice with these crampons compared to some others I have owned or used.

Scarpa Phantom Guide Boots- After climbing vertical ice in these boots, I shudder at the thought of going back to my leather boots.  These boots hold onto my heel and foot so well, they have pretty much eliminated calf burning for me.  Now that's not to say that my calves wouldn't burn on a long, sustained climb in these boots, but my calves would usually start to burn while climbing on our local waterfalls, but I haven't had even the slightest bit of calf strain on these same waterfalls with the Phantom Guides.  Some more thoughts on these boots here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/few-thoughts-on-scarpa-phantom-guide.html

Winter Layering Part 1

I got home the other night from climbing, changed my clothes, and climbed into bed.  My wife rolled over and said, "You're not going to shower?  Gross!"  I told her that I didn't sweat the whole time I was climbing and I'd showered before I left, so I didn't stink.  She rolled over, smelled me, and agreed I didn't stink and said I could stay.  She then said, "How do you go climbing for four hours and not sweat?"

The key is proper layering

The fact is, the last few times I've been snowshoeing or climbing I haven't sweat (except a little under a pack).  I have sweat a ton less this winter compared to other winters but I've also been getting out a lot more often.  I have found that you have to feel just slightly cool so that you don't sweat.  If you're moving, chances are you will feel good.  If you stop, you may get a little chilled.  That's the ideal.  Before you get cold, throw on a warmer layer over the rest of your clothes.  This is the action suit/belay jacket idea.

A couple good link for more on winter layering:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/09/winter-layers.html

http://willgadd.com/?p=568

Last year I thought I had finally found the perfect winter clothing system.  For the upper layer, it consisted of the Arcteryx Rho LTW as a baselayer, the NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody, the Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody, the Arcteryx Alpha LT Jacket (I have the SV but if I had to do it again, I'd get the LT), and finally the Rab Neutrino Endurance down jacket.  Actually, my ideal would have consisted of the Arcteryx Dually Belay jacket, if it wasn't so dad blame expensive. 

NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody

Climbing Ogden Via Ferrata in Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody

 Anyway, I felt like this combination of jackets would take me anywhere I would ever want to go (at least in the lower 48 and probably even Canada and AK).  I wouldn't always take every layer with me on a winter outing, but mostly.  For the bottom layer, my ideal system would be the Arcteryx Rho LTW pant, the Arcteryx Gamma LT pant, and the Arcteryx Kappa pant.  The Rho baselayer is plenty of insulation on the bottom layer for hiking and climbing in all but the very coldest situations (0 degrees or colder while hiking uphill or climbing strenuous rock/ice).  For standing around in cold temps (below 20 degrees), I prefer happy pants (insulated pants that make the cold weather climbing experience much more enjoyable).  Almost every company make them, but the best ones have full side zips.  The best I've found are the Arcteryx Kappa Pants (though quite pricy), but the Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pants are quite good as well.  Rab has an updated offering (Photon Pant) that looks pretty nice and I'm excited to try out. 

Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant

Arcteryx Kappa AR Pant

 My wife, Kelsey, has a pair of First Ascent Igniter pant which she loves and, I must say, they fit her very well.  I originally ordered them for her because I found them online for a good price and I wanted her to enjoy winter backpacking with me a little more.  When they got here I was impressed with the quality of the manufacturing.  The only compaint I have about the pants is that the side zips don't go all the way to the waist.  The men's version don't either.  They are perfect for her because she doesn't do very much climbing with crampons.  I, on the other hand, would pretty much only use them on climbing trips with crampons.  Without full zips, it is impossible to get these pants on and off without ripping them into pieces without taking your crampons off first.  This is, at the very least, a hassle, and at the very most, dangerous, depending on the terrain you are on when you put them on.  Anyway, for climbing applications, get happy pants with full side zips.

So, my layering generally goes something like this:
If the weather is 25 degrees and not snowing:
 and I'm hiking uphill, I wear a long sleeve baselayer (Arc Rho Ltw) and softshell pants. 
If I'm climbing, I throw on a weather/wind resistant hard- or softshell to keep dripping waterfalls at bay.  I really like the Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody or I use the Arcteryx Alpha SV Jacket. 
If I'm resting I throw on the Atom Lt Hoody.  I may layer the NWAlpine black spider light hoody under the atom is I think I'll be sitting around for a while.
If it's snowing, I throw a hardshell over all the layer (with all vents open if hiking)
If the weather is 15 degrees or colder and not snowing:
and I'm hiking uphill--Baselayer, NWA hoody (if not windy) or Arc Acto Hoody (if windy)
If I'm climbing--Baselayer, NWA Hoody, and Arc Acto Hoody or Hardshell (Arc Alpha) OR baselayer and Atom Lt Hoody.  The Atom as a climbing layer is one of my favorite options.

Climbing in Atom Lt Hoody, Middle Teton, October 2010

never overheated, never got too cold

If I'm resting--Rab Neutrino or baselayer, NWA Hoody, Atom Lt Hoody, and hardshell.
If it's 15 degrees or colder and snowing:
and I'm hiking uphill--baselayer, light softshell (Arc Acto) or NWA Hoody (not water resistant, but if it's that cold you shouldn't get wet in it, unless you're really working up some steam).
If resting and snowing--same as if not snowing.  At 15 degrees or colder, there is no need for waterproof.  Even water-resistant is usually unnecessary.  The snow simply won't melt, unless you sit or kneel in it.

I pretty much take the same jackets on almost every trip now.  If the weather is going to be above 15 degrees but below freezing and I'll be moving most of the time, I take a baselayer, the Acto, and the Atom Lt Hoody.  I wear the Atom to climb in if it's near 15, the Acto to climb in if it's closer to 25 or 30, or all three if I'm belaying.
If the weather is below 15 degrees, I take a baselayer, the NWA black spider light hoody, the Acto, and the Rab Neutrino.  I only wear the Neutrino for belaying/sitting around, but I'm always warm. 


Anyway, that is, in a nutshell, how I usually layer during the winter.

What works for me may not work for others at the same temperature.  It varies based on many factors.  Body fat percentage, diet, fitness level, hydration level, etc.  The key is to understand the principles--hike slightly cool, action suit/belay layers, etc., and adjust them according you one's own personal physiology.

Some thoughts on particular pieces of gear that I have really been impressed with (or not) will be on Winter Layering Part 2

Arc'teryx Atom lt Hoody Review

The Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody

I just wanted to share a few thoughts about what has become one of my very favorite pieces of kit.  I have owned this jacket now for almost 2 1/2 years.  My initial thoughts on it when I first put it on were that the fit was perfect, the cuffs were the best I've ever seen for this type of jacket, and the price was very competitive with many of the other synthetic offerings from Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear, etc.  A few days later I was using it as a belay jacket while sport climbing in Ogden, Utah (it was October), then a week or so later I used it as my active climbing layer while climbing the NW Ice Couloir on the Middle Teton.  The next week I was using it as a more formal jacket while going to eat at a nice restaurant.  This jacket has been one of the most versatile jackets I have ever owned.

NW Couloir, Middle Teton, WY

It was about 25 degrees Fahernheit while on the Middle Teton.  The wind was blowing about 35 mph from the lower saddle until we got into the couloir and then it died down to about 15 mph.  Normally these temperatures would have been a little too warm to be climbing hard in this jacket, but the wind, combined with the underarm stretch panels, made climbing in this jacket quite comfortable.  It was just the right amount of insulation to not overheat while climbing, and to not freeze at the belays (though we simul-climbed the majority of the route).

Two years later and I am still smitten with this jacket.  My wife was too and often stole it from me, until she got one of her own for christmas.  I have taken this jacket on every climbing and backpacking trip since I got it until just a few weeks ago when my wife and I climbed the Pfeifferhorn above Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT.  I have grown quite attached to this jacket and I have to admit I was a bit sad leaving it behind.  In place of the atom I took the Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody and a Rab Neutrino down jacket.  I figured the Rab would be a little nicer around camp (lows were in the single digits) and the Acto was new and I was anxious to try it out.  I must admit I was very pleased with the Acto.  Stay tuned for a full review.  I need to get more climbing and hiking in it under my belt.

My wife and I on the Pfeifferhorn, UT.  I am wearing the Acto MX Hoody and she is in her Atom LT Hoody.

Back to the Atom.  A few reasons why I love this jacket.  First of all, the fit is incredible.  I am 6'2", 185 lbs., and have a short torso (18" torso length).  I bought it in a medium.  The sleeves are the perfect length, the hood fits nicely over my head without a helmet and very well over a helmet, and the hem drops down to about mid butt in back and a couple inches below the belt in front.  The DWR was intially very good, though it has now worn off.  It still repels snow, and it repelled light rain well for about the first year.  With the hood over a climbing helmet, the hood pulls the front of the jacket up to my nose.  This is perfect for me in cold, blowing weather, and I can easily unzip the jacket six inches to breathe easier or to dump heat.

A few of the features on this jacket include two fleece-backed handwarmer pockets and an internal zip pocket, 60g of coreloft insulation (very similar to primaloft, from what I can tell), powerstretch hardfleece underarm panels, the best cuffs on the market, and a hem drawcord.

About Coreloft:  I was told by an arcteryx rep that coreloft is very similar to primaloft, except the fibers are slightly bigger in diameter.  This allows Arcteryx to use a looser weave in their nylon without coreloft fibers pulling through the shell fabric.  This increases the breathability of the shell.  I would have thought that a looser weave would decrease the durability of the fabric, but in the two years I have been climbing in the jacket, I can't find a single snag or sign of wear.  My wife, on the other hand, has had her jacket for about a month and just found a small snag.  She was using an ice axe for the first time a couple weeks ago, so that may have been the culprit.

There is only one way in which Arcteryx could improve this jacket, in my opinion.  And actually, I don't really think it would be an improvement in most cases.  Anyway, a drawcord on the hood would allow one to cinch the hood down a little tighter around the head for windy conditions.  With a helmet on, the hood is perfect.  Without a helmet, the hood can let a bit of cold air in around the head and can even blow off the head.  A drawcord on the hood would fix this, but I'm still not convinced it's worth the extra weight.  On very cold and windy days, the powerstretch panels can get a little drafty.  In this case a light wind jacket over the top is an easy solution.  The benefit of the added breathability far outweighs this bad side effect. 

To see this jacket in action as well as the fit and features, here's a good, short video from ogdenoutdooradventure.com:

http://ogdenoutdooradventure.com/2011/12/08/gear30-arcteryx-atom-lt-hoody-review/

Also, a couple good reviews from a very knowledgable Dane at Cold Thistle can be found at this link:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html

and

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-sweater.html

I'm convinced that this jacket will continue to be a favorite for years to come.

-Greg, Gear:30