I read this short article recently from Rock and Ice about Josh Wharton's recent alpine climbing ascents. He climbed Wild Thing (VI M7 WI5, 4300ft) on the east face of Mount Chephren, Infinite Patience (VI 5.9 M5 WI5, 6000ft) on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson, and Greenwood/Locke (5.8 A2, 4000ft) on the North Face of Mount Temple all in one week. The climbs are absolutely incredible and extremely difficult, and to do all three of these climbs in one week is ridiculously difficult. The article is well worth reading.
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2002-josh-whartons-amazing-alpine-climbing-week
On a different note, I've noticed that Duane Raleigh, a writer (the editor?) for Rock and Ice, has made some pretty strong statements recently. About Conrad Anker he wrote, "Conrad Anker Crushes Everest w/o Oxygen." And about Josh Wharton's recent climbs, he wrote, "[Josh]. . . left the Canadian Rockies wondering what baseball bat they'd been beaten with." Now, I understand that these feats are pretty incredible and that Mr. Raleigh is excited about them, but since when have these mountains ever been "crushed" or "beaten" by climbers? The fact is that, to successfully climb these mountains, the mountains have to cooperate. I'm pretty sure no climber "beats" or "crushes" a mountain. Just a thought.
Showing posts with label Rock and Ice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rock and Ice. Show all posts
Monday, May 28, 2012
Monday, May 7, 2012
Everest experiencing its most dangerous season to date
I personally have little desire to climb Mt. Everest, but I do still like reading about other people's adventures on this mountain. Two climbers from Ogden, Will Calton and Tom Burton, are currently at Mt. Everest trying to tick this mountain off their lists as they climb the Seven Summits. Unfortunately, I just read this article from Rock and Ice this morning that explained that conditions on the mountain are more dangerous this year than any previous year. According to Russell Brice (arguably the best and most experienced Everest Guide), there is so much rockfall on the upper mountain and the Khumbu Icefall is so dangerous that even the most experienced Sherpas aren't willing to head up the mountain. Russell Brice even pulled the plug on his commercial expedition because of the danger.
I'm not sure what the plans are for the two Ogdenites, but we're just hoping and praying that they play it smart and that they're safe.
Read the Rock and Ice article by clicking the above link or this link:
http://www.rockandice.com/news/1960-everest-too-dangerous
I'm not sure what the plans are for the two Ogdenites, but we're just hoping and praying that they play it smart and that they're safe.
Read the Rock and Ice article by clicking the above link or this link:
http://www.rockandice.com/news/1960-everest-too-dangerous
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