Arc'teryx Nozone 35 Review

I have been looking for a good, simple alpine climbing pack for a while.  I have many packs and have used most of them over the years for climbing, but most of the packs I have are too big for a day of alpine climbing, summer or winter.  I wanted something that would be a good size for a day outing and could be stretched to overnight outings.  A few other requirements were that it was simple, clean, climbs well, comfortably carries climbing hardware (like cams, ice screws, etc) and up to 30lbs, and is somewhat strippable.

I read a 3-part post by Dane at Cold Thistle about his opinions on climbing packs.  They are very interesting articles and got me thinking (more than I already was) about what a good climbing pack is.  There have been times when I've been climbing with a mostly empty 50 liter pack with a fairly stiff frame that is so hindering to my movement that it makes a 5.8 rock climb or WI3 ice climb, that are usually pretty easy, awkward and sometimes difficult.  There have been other times when I'm out for a day of climbing and fill my pack half way, but the pack still fills full and bulky, just because the pack is so big.  That's usually ok if I'm hiking to the bottom of a waterfall or crag and am leaving my pack at the bottom, but if I ever want to do a long alpine route, my current packs are a pain to use.

Here are links to each of Dane's pack articles.  Well worth reading if you haven't already:

Part 1:  http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/fitting-and-detailing-on-climbing-packs.html

Part 2:  http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/climbing-packs-part-2.html

Part 3:  http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/climbing-packs-part-3.html

Not long ago, Arc'teryx came out with a new/redesigned alpine climbing pack that is about the size I was looking for.  Before this pack, I was debating ordering the Black Diamond Epic 35 or the Axis 33. I was also thinking about special ordering a Cold Cold World Ozone pack similar to what Dane suggests.  I was also considering getting another Cilogear Worksack, but this time in 30L size.  I didn't know what to do.  I noticed this new Arc'teryx pack, the Nozone 35, which looked particularly interesting, but it is expensive.  About a month later I had one on the way, not because it looked better than the other options, but because it looked really nice and I got a good deal on one.

So, the pack showed up this morning and I wanted to write a little about my first impressions.  THIS IS NOT A REVIEW.  I have not yet used the pack.  These are just initial thoughts and they could very easily change.  Maybe these thoughts and pictures could be helpful to those that are also interested in this pack, but would like to see it in detail before they commit.

Let me say at the outset that I am not against expensive gear.  I have a lot of it.  If it's quality and will last a long time, I have no problem paying a lot of money for the gear.  I am against overpriced gear and  I am against low-quality gear.  My opinion could definitely change on this pack as I use it, but I think this pack has crossed the line to overpriced.

Pictures and Comments

Arc'teryx Nozone 35, Arc'teryx's redesigned alpine climbing pack.  They used to make the Nozone, but discontinued it a few years ago.  They have now resurrected the line, but with a bit of a face lift.  The total weight according to my scale is 2lb 4.2oz.  Stripped with lid (no hipbelt, no stays) weighs 1lb 14oz.  Stripped without lid weighs 1lb 9.6oz.

The black patch on the side of the pack is a stretch mesh wand/probe/trekking pole pocket.  It's not big enough for a water bottle, but it is big enough for a little with of food or the items mentioned above.

Arc'teryx's new Arc-on suspension.  It looks really nice and clean, but it just doesn't seem as incredible as their own videos make it sound.  The back panel is a pretty hard foam.  It's stiff so that the backpanel doesn't barrel when overpacked.  It also protects one's back against hard gear, like cams, screws, etc.

The lid is pretty small.  I can fit two small jackets (think driclime windshirt-sized jackets), but that's it.  The lid extends (floats) to accommodate overpacking and is easily removable.

The pack with the extension sleeve and rope strap.

These loops make opening and shutting the pack super easy, even with gloves.  

There are two reinforced haul loops, one on the front and one on the back.

The wand/probe/pole pocket.  

The Ice Axe/Tool attachment system is very simple and easy to attach tools.  Even aggressive, ergo-shaped tools and handles fit, though it takes a little extra effort to slip them in and out of the webbing loop.  Still very clean and simple.

The lower attachment is also part of the compression strap on the bottom.  Cool system, in my opinion.

The picks fit in the sleeve.  The interior of the sleeve is reinforced with a heavier, coated fabric.

A bungee cord is included with the pack.  I doubt I'll use it much, but it's nice as an option and especially that it's easily removable.

The interior.  You can see that the backpanel is also supported by two aluminum stays.  When the stays are in, the frame doesn't bend.  With the stays removed, the frame is quite flexible, while still offering a firm panel to protect against uncomfortable gear.

Pre-curved aluminum stays.  Thank goodness they're removable.  I doubt I'll ever use them.

The stays are held in by a reinforced velcro flap.  The stays are easily removable.

The shoulder straps have a nice curve and are light, but seem adequately padded.  We'll have to see how they feel with 30lbs or so.

The 1.5" webbing hipbelt is removable.  When tightened, the hipbelt helps pull the lumbar portion of the backpanel into the small of one's back.  Should support the weight of a day of climbing pretty well. 

Again, the backpanel is clean and simple.  The foam is hard.  That could be a problem.  We'll see. 

Without the stays the pack is quite flexible while still not allowing hard gear to push through the back panel into one's back.

Again, the backpanel is flexible without the stays.

To give you an idea of the size.  The lid in this picture is not extended.  The pack would be about four inches taller extended.

To Sum Things Up

So, my initial thoughts of this pack are really positive.  The only gripe I have so far is that the pack is so expensive.  For a 35L pack, $240 seems overpriced.  The other packs I compared it to earlier are about $60-$100 less for a comparable pack.  I do think that this pack is as well designed as any of the other packs and that the materials and manufacturing are every bit as good if not better than the other packs (except maybe the cold cold world packs.  I've actually never checked out one of their packs in person).  And because of the technology used in the pack, it probably is more expensive to make than the other packs.  But $240?  Pretty steep.

The other concern is the backpanel.  I think it will work well, but it is pretty hard foam and I'm interested to see how comfortable it is after a long day of climbing.  Time will tell.

Anyway, so far I think that the pack will be a good pack and will perform well.  We'll see in a few months if I think it's worth the money.

After a Couple Months

I have now been using this pack for a couple months.  I have only used it for rock climbing so far, but I couldn't be happier with it.  I think it is the perfect size for an alpine rock and ice climbing pack.  I'm still curious to see how it will work for ice climbing, but I've climbed moderate rock routes with the pack on, carried heavy loads (35+ pounds) on the approach to climbs, and even used it backpacking. 

Though I wouldn't suggest carrying more than 35 pounds in it for long approaches because of the minimal belt, the stays are robust enough to easily handle that much weight and more.  Without the stays, the pack still carries quite comfortably.  Even when overstuffed, the backpanel stays flat and will not barrel.   I'm not really sure why the pack has stays.  I've used them once even though I didn't need to.  Other than that one time, the stays have stayed in the closet.  A pack this size isn't big enough to carry more than 35 or so pounds worth of gear and the backpanel is stiff enough to handle anything less.

Without the stays, the pack climbs quite comfortably.  The hipbelt is thin enough to stay out of the way of a harness and the shoulder straps are comfortable with a load but soft enough, thin enough, and cut just right as not to impede arm movement.  When the pack is totally overstuffed with a rope, it is tall enough, just barely, to get in the way of looking up with a helmet on.  The only time that was a problem, however, was when the pack was totally full, spindrift collar extended, with a rope strapped on top.  

I think this pack is as good or better than any other alpine pack I have used.  I think this pack is every bit the equal (or maybe better) of many of the dyneema climbing packs on the market that are more expensive than this pack.  At $240, it's still plenty pricy, but for a climber who wants serious mileage and performance out of their pack, this is a good option and, in my opinion, worth the money.

A look back at this winter's favorite gear

I can't help it.  It's been 70 degrees and sunny in Ogden and my  mind is automatically shifting from ice to rock climbing.  I have been trying to stay focused on ice climbing because I have a trip coming up to some higher mountains and bigger lines.  I have been watching ice climbing videos, training on my ice tools, and playing with my other ice climbing gear, but the whole time I'm dreaming about all the long rock routes I want to do this summer.

So, as ice season is passing in Ogden, I want to briefly reflect on my favorite gear from this winter.  This is gear that has been with me on pretty much every outing and I am very happy with.  I will also add a few pieces of gear that Phil has been using all winter and loving.  I will not be adding pieces that I have taken climbing out of default (because I have no other option).  This is all gear that I love and therefore CHOOSE to take with me instead of a different option.

I have been able to ice climb about 30 days this winter, which isn't a ton, but I feel pretty happy with it, considering I'm a full-time student and in the process of opening a business.

The Gear

Black Diamond Torque Gloves- These gloves are awesome!  The grip is incredible and the dexterity is hard to beat.  I layer a light merino liner under them and my hands have been warm from 15-30 degree teperatures.  I think I only got the screaming barfies once this winter.  These gloves are a little light duty, I'm afraid.  30 days of ice, a few days of drytooling, some training on a plice tower, and some hiking and they are ready to be replaced.  I guess they're not really designed to be a a heavy-duty glove.  But, even though the grip is getting pretty worn, they have still been quite water-resistant.

Arc'teryx Rho ltw zip baselayer- I have a lot of other baselayers, but this is always my first choice.  If I have two or three outings planned in a week, I save this one for the best climb and use the others on lesser climbs.  This baselayer is super comfortable, wicks moisture well and dries quickly, doesn't stink, even after 3 years of using year-round, and fits extremely well.  It has long, stretchy sleeves which I really appreciate for ice climbing.  Sometimes I'll tuck the sleeves into my torque gloves to keep my wrists covered, which really helps to keep my hands warm.  It is also super durable.  I have scummed up chimneys, hiked countless miles with a pack, and washed it probably 150 times, and it still looks new.

NWAlpine Black Spider Light Hoody- I have already written many times about this piece (http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/lightweight-midlayers-my-favorites.html).  The combination of lightweight, quick-drying material, great design and fit, and affordable price tag make this one of the best base/midlayers I have ever used.  I do occasionally wear this as a baselayer and it works quite well.  I rarely go climbing without it.

Arc'teryx Acto MX Hoody- I have already done an in-depth review on this piece (http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/02/arcteryx-acto-mx-hoody-review.html), and my opinion hasn't changed.  I have been looking a lot at other softshell jackets, but I can't think of a better material for active use during the winter than what is used on this jacket.  Maybe Neoshell.  This jacket has pretty much replaced my hardshell (I used my hardshell three times this winter, two of which were skiing).  It does let a little bit more wind through than I would consider ideal for a shell, but when moving fast, I rarely get sweaty (I sweat, but it evaporates quickly).

Marmot Zion Jacket- This has been Phil's go-to jacket all winter long.  Whenever we were hiking or climbing and I was sure he'd be overheating and sweaty, I'd ask him how he feels and he'd reply, "I feel great!  I can't believe how well this jacket breathes!"  He'd often throw the jacket on to dry off once we got up to a climb and were racking up.  Read an in-depth review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/marmot-zion-neoshell-jacket-review.html

Arc'teryx Atom LT Hoody- This jacket goes almost everywhere with me, winter or summer.  It has mostly been my belay jacket this winter because temperatures have been fairly mild.  On really cold mornings, it turns into my climbing jacket.  I love EVERYTHING about this jacket.  If you don't have one yet, you're missing out, in my opinion.  A better review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/01/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoody-i-just-wanted-to.html

Mid-October climbing on the Middle Teton in the Atom LT Hoody

NWAlpine Fast/Light Pant- In-depth review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/02/nwalpine-fast-and-light-pant.html.  I love the fit, simplicity, key features, and material of these pants.  They aren't perfect, but pretty close, and for $110 they are hard to beat.  My go-to pant for pretty  much all winter activities, especially climbing.

Cilogear Worksack- I haven't even touched another backpack this winter (except for my bc skiing pack), and I have seven other packs to choose from.  I imagine it will be my go-to pack on most summer climbing outings as well.  Full review here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/cilogear-worksack-60l-review.html.  My only regret with this pack is that I didn't also get a 30 liter worksack.

Camp Awax and Cassin X-All Mountain Tools- I have used many other tools over the years, including Nomics, Quarks, Vipers, Cobras, and Reactors, and I haven't found another tool that I like better than the Camp Awax and Cassin X-All Mountain.  I even spent a week in Ouray with all of these tools side-by-side (except the Cassins), and my consensus was that the Awax was my favorite (the Nomic being a fairly close second).  Phil has been climbing with the X-All Mountain tools this winter and ended up selling his other set (Reactors) because he didn't think he would use them again.  I think that the X-All Mountain is possibly the most underestimated tool on the market.  The picks on these tools penetrate all types of ice extremely well (sometimes too well, but a little modification to the picks help them pull out of the ice easier).  They have held up quite well to drytooling and even camming in horizontal cracks.  Great tools!

CAMP Awax Tools

Cassin X-All Mountain Tools

Petzl Dartwins- This is the first year I have owned Dartwins, but I have never used a better crampon for vertical ice and mixed.  They skate a little too much on low-angle ice, but I don't even want to touch my other crampons when I'm headed to climb a waterfall.  They do tear holes in my pants a little more efficiently than other I've used, but I was amazed at how much more secure my feet feel on steep ice with these crampons compared to some others I have owned or used.

Scarpa Phantom Guide Boots- After climbing vertical ice in these boots, I shudder at the thought of going back to my leather boots.  These boots hold onto my heel and foot so well, they have pretty much eliminated calf burning for me.  Now that's not to say that my calves wouldn't burn on a long, sustained climb in these boots, but my calves would usually start to burn while climbing on our local waterfalls, but I haven't had even the slightest bit of calf strain on these same waterfalls with the Phantom Guides.  Some more thoughts on these boots here: http://gearthirty.blogspot.com/2012/03/few-thoughts-on-scarpa-phantom-guide.html