Showing posts with label Bjorn-Eivind Artun. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bjorn-Eivind Artun. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Jonathan Griffith's Video - Denali





One of my favorite blogs to follow is Jon Griffith's, http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions. His photography and videography is top-notch. Jon is often the photographer and videographer for Ueli Steck. One of my favorite videos, partially because I have a slight obsession with Denali (though I have never been there), is Jon's video of he and Will Sim climbing the West Buttress and setting the speed record on the Cassin Ridge. Speed records on the Cassin (or on any route, for that matter) are controversial because it is very much condition-dependent. For example, Colin Haley and Bjorn-Eivind Artun climbed it the year previous with the hope of breaking Mugs Stumps' record of 15 hours. They finished the route in 17 hours, running into deep snow for the last 3,000 feet or so. Either way, if you can climb the Cassin in a day, you're incredibly strong.





Another great video is of Joshua Lavigne and Raphael Slawinski climbing the Cassin in a day. I can't seem to figure out how to embed videos from vimeo, so here's the link to his video:


http://vimeo.com/26046094


Joshua Lavigne's Blog:


http://alpinesummits.blogspot.com/


Colin Haley's blog is also one of my favorites. Read about their Alaska 2010 trip climbing both the Cassin and a new route on Mt. Foraker, Dracula, here:


http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010/06/alaska-2010-dracula-and-cassin-simul.html


and last but not least, Raphael Slawinski's blog is always good. He is a great writer and I always enjoy reading his posts.


http://raphaelslawinski.blogspot.com/


Saturday, February 11, 2012

Great morning turns bad. . .

Just got back from climbing Willard Waterfall with Phil and my father-in-law.  It was my father-in-law's first time ice climbing and he did very well.  The waterfall has melted out quite a bit over the last couple weeks and there are now some small sections of mixed climbing to make things slightly more interesting.  The temps were pretty warm which made for plastic ice and warm bodies.  Quite an enjoyable morning, until. . .


When I got home, I ate some breakfast and got on the computer to read some of the climbing blogs I frequent.  I first went to Cold Thistle (www.coldthistle.blogspot.com), one of my favorite blogs.  I read the title of the post: "Bjorn-Eivind Artun and Stein-Evar Gravdal RIP," and my heart sunk.  I have often read about these two climbers and some of the incredible routes they have done.  They truly were some of the greatest alpine and ice climbers of our day.  I pray for the friends and family of these two climbers that they may feel comfort during this difficult time.  They will be missed.


For more information about these two climbers and the routes they have climbed, Dane at Cold Thistle has posted some good links.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/02/bjrn-eivind-artun-and-stein-ivar.html

Also, a cool, short video and pictures of these two climbers in Norway climbing some massive ice routes:

http://ut.no/artikkel/1.7477846


It is sometimes difficult to accept the fact that mountain sports, especially at such a high level of ability and commitment as these climbers,  are dangerous.  Each time one heads into the mountains, that person willfully increases the risk to themselves.  I have heard many stories recently of skiers and climbers killed in avalanches, falls off of ice, etc.  Even a good friend of mine just got back after a somewhat close call on the Grand Teton.  It is sobering.  And when others ask me why I or anybody else would be crazy enough to ice climb or backcountry ski, sometimes I struggle to find an adequate answer.


But the fact is, many of the very richest and most rewarding experiences I have ever had have been in the mountains.  Life, to me, wouldn't be worth living without experiencing moments like that every now and then.  So I am grateful to people like Bjorn-Eivind and Stein-Evar (and many others) who have lived their lives in a way that has inspired me to seek out such rewarding experiences for myself.  It is unfortunate that their lives have ended, but I am convinced they have even greater experiences awaiting them.